I will say that I have owned 3 higher end 1911s. A $3k Springfield Custom Shop 1911 (this is on par with the Wilson - it is NOT like the regular Springfields at the gun shop)..... And, two Ed Browns.

Once you own a higher end 1911, it is difficult to be satisfied with regular, non custom 1911s. I can never find a normal 1911 I like anymore. The thumb safety, trigger, lack of play in the trigger, and fit and finish of the semi custom 1911s will be MUCH better. Now, I always have some issue with either the trigger or thumb safety when I look at anything cheaper.

And, I've said it before - until you own one, you won't necessarily understand WHY the gun is better than a regular, non custom 1911. Yea, there is always some guy complaining that his Rock Island Armory is equal to an Ed Brown or Wilson... Maybe in his mind, but not in reality. Arguing with someone like that is a huge waste of time, though....

I have owned a TRP many years ago. It was nice for the money, but I personally prefer 1911s from Dan Wesson in that price range (I have previously owned 3 Dan Wessons). On the TRP I had, the 25LPI machine checkering on the front strap is awfully sharp. Much sharper than 25 LPI hand checkering, It digs into your fingers a little TOO much. Also, the Bushing was much harder to turn than even n the Ed Browns I had.

The TRP is not a bad gun, but not even close to a Wilson or Brown. Personally, Ed Browns are my favorites...

 

Very well written. Thnx

 

Well said Shipwreck. I have made believers out of many folks who had no idea what the differences were at our gunclub. Once they handle and shoot it, they do. It was the best investment of my gun life.

 

I have a Springfield 1911A1 that I want to do some refinements to. Nothing extravagant just upgrade the sights and maybe the grip safety and hammer.
Once I get this one to the point that I am comfortable shooting it, I may crack the wallet and from what I have read, Dan Wesson may well be my choice.

 

To see the difference in a semi custom 1911 and a standard production 1911 all you need to do is field strip a semi custom and look at how the internals are machined. Look at how everything is fit compared to the fit of a production 1911. The difference is very obvious. Then there's the little extras such as serrated slide tops, checkered front straps, countersunk slide stop pins, and other cosmetic extras. Also, when you take a new Wilson Combat 1911 out of its box, there will be no rattling grip safeties, or spongy thumb safeties.
I had a Wilson ULCC compact in .38 Super that was notably more accurate than any of my regular production 1911's. The higher level of fitting in the Wilson simply made it shoot like a laser. With that said, I have a gunsmith built custom Colt Combat Commander that was equally as accurate as the Wilson ULCC, and more accurate than a Wilson CQB I own.

 

First post...please be nice!

I've owned a lot of guns, and I've never had a 1911 run perfectly out of the box...which is frustrating as nearly all of my polymer combat guns run great.

I have NOT had anything nicer than a Dan Wesson. I'm beginning to doubt the design. I'm tempted to pickup a Nighthawk or a Springfield Professional (custom shop mode). What can I expect from those?

 

First post...please be nice!

I've owned a lot of guns, and I've never had a 1911 run perfectly out of the box...which is frustrating as nearly all of my polymer combat guns run great.

I have NOT had anything nicer than a Dan Wesson. I'm beginning to doubt the design. I'm tempted to pickup a Nighthawk or a Springfield Professional (custom shop mode). What can I expect from those?

I think the last three new in the box 1911 pistols I've bought have all been Colts. First was a Colt Defender in .45 ACP, second was a Colt XSE Commander in .38 Super, and the most recent, was a Colt Wiley Clapp CCO in .45 ACP. The Defender, to my surprise, and the WC CCO, both ran perfectly from the box even using the factory supplied magazines. The XSE Commander had some kind of factory lube on the slide rails of the receiver, that had softened the factory applied CeraKote finish of the frame. As I initially shot the pistol, the CeraKote began to come off the frame rails in oily balls that quickly slowed the slide, and jammed the gun. As soon as I recognized the problem, and scraped the slide rails clean of Cerkote, the gun ran just fine from then on. With 1911 pistols it is very improtant that they be properly lubed, and that the extractor be properly tensioned to allow the pistols to run. If you initially check these two things prior to shooting your new 1911 pistol, you will find that they are as dependable as any other design.

 

Oh, usually, there is big difference between a semi custom or custom gun...that's why they are custom guns. The only problem I have with "custom" guns is the fact that I cannot afford a 3,000 dollar pistol...sigh. 😉

 

I've had 1911's running from 200 bucks (Used Auto Ordnance) up to 5k (Color case hardened custom). I eventually sold all my high dollar ones because I can shoot no better with them than the cheapies. I currently own a Kimber Classic from '94 that is well broken in. I only had one that wouldn't "run" right, and I solved that problem by polishing the feed ramp by hand with a cloth and jeweler's rouge. If you want a pricey gun, go for it. If you're only buying one because the others didn't run, you need a competent 1911 guy (or gal) to look it over for you.