Underneath is my barrel, how can i remove the factory blueing, then polish to a chrome to mirror finish? I think the barrel is stainless steel. I am a beginner, and am looking for help. Thanks in advanced.
so if i use bluing remover on my barrel this is not bad unlike the vinegar?Get a little bottle of blueing remover from Birchwood Casey or the like,do it by hand,then start sanding.2000 grit is fine on paint,polishing paper on steel.If you use anything below 1200 you're going to remove metal fast so remember not to play with lockup areas and ruin it.
Great informationIt's safer.If you get a leak into the bore with vinegar early on it will start etching the bore,hence fouling will increase.Carbon steel is worse but it will attack stainless also,that could be backwards because it's been quite a while since I've been on this topic.The blueing remover is controllable,just wipe it where you want it,let it do it's thing per the instructions,remove and nuetralize it.Once you're done stripping it start polishing.Relying on memory ammonia and vinegar only have about 15 minutes tops to stay on the surface before damage starts,tops.Vinegar is one trick knife makers use to patina demascus blades to make them resemble the old original damascus (or Wootz) steels used centuries ago.Some of the cheaper damascus gets really eaten up and the layers are quite pronounced in sight and even feel.
Just remember to not alter the barrel block and muzzle where lockup occurs,a few swipes with 1500 to surface polish will be fine.If you want the barrel block flats nice that's cool to mirror up if you want it.One thing you'll find is flats aren't always flat.I use a perfectly flat surface to lay the paper on and work the part over,and you'll see highs and lows.On critical areas,you don't level it out because you'll be lowering edges,which is part of your lockup engagement like the front of your barrel block (or chamber block).Doing the outside of the slide is no big deal because by the time you level out the stampings and block out the lows,you only removed a few thousandths of metal in a non critical area.It's also quite labor intensive.I partly cleaned up the flats on my Commander slide and drew it over a file first to get most of the stamping mushrooms and highs out and went to 320.It still isn't flat but I finished off with 500 and it looks like the original brushed finish.Just that was well over an hours work.