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Used to use gunscrubber and RemOil. I have since moved to Breakfree CLP and Remoil, and now pretty much just use Breakfree exclusively.

On another Beretta site, some people were claiming that GUnscrubber was messing up their Bruniton finish on their Berettas. So, I was using it on everything but Berettas, but then pretty much just gave up on it altogether.

The Breakfree seems to work well enough. I do usually take a toothbrush and re-oil the rails about 1x a month on all of my guns, though.
 

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I use gunscrubber to thoroughly clean my gun after a field strip. I then re-lube my rails with a few drops of break free.

When I am going to wipe the gun down after just a couple of outings and not do a field strip, I usually wipe the pistol down on the outside wit a little bit of rem oil. I then usually use a q-tip with some hops #9 solvent to clean the breech face.

Also when doing either a field strip or just a basic wipe down, I always clean my barrell. I use a rod and some cleaning swabs soaked in Hoppes #9 cleaning solvent to clear out the barrell of deposits.

Hope that helps!
 
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Blackhawk said:
Breakfree CLP! It not the newest or the most expensive cleaner I have tried but it is the best.
That's all that I have been using, seems like great stuff.
 

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I use Hoppes Elite solvent and boresnakes. Does the trick for me. Lubrication consists of Corrosion X oil and TW25B grease depending on the application.
 

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Just one question- yesterday I downloaded and read some of the manual for the Beretta 90two. The manual recomended cleaning the barrel with a brush/solvent/patches, and then oiling the barrel by running a patch soaked in Beretta oil down the barrel. Is this an important step? I assume it it 'cause it's in the manual, however I haven't noticed such recomendations in the manuals for the other pistols I have access to.

L J
 

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if you do run an oiled patch down the barrel before storing the gun make VERY sure you run a dry patch down it before shooting it. Get that oil OUT!!!

AFS
 

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I used oil for years and continually had to watch for rust. I have changed to stainless guns as I can. On all my stainless guns I use Eezox, which I clean with and let dry. It works great on my CCW. It is a dry lubricant that smells good and no oil to get on clothing. Think most people that haven't tried it would be supprised if they used it. I know I was. :-D
 

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The cleanest I've ever been able to get my guns is with a solvent to get the big hunks and loosen things up fairly well, then use around 100psi with my air hose and blast everything away. This leaves a dry firearm, ready for what ever lube I feel like using at the time... Overall, I like CLP. I dose the gun good, let it set a few, then blast it with air again... Then a little lube in the needful areas...

The toothbrush is my friend... 8)
 

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Well, I'm an oldtimer and a hardheaded cuss. I've been using Hoppe's #9 and Three-In-One oil for fifty years now, and still found nothing that cleans better nor protects better.

For degreasing, commercial lacquer thinner.

Bob Wright
 

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Cleaning The Gun.

:-D I shoot a lot of reloads so my guns can get real dirty with lead and all. I take a brass brush with some Blue wonder on it and scrub it out real good and let it soak for about 15 mintues. I'll run a patch through and then I do the same thing over with Hoppe's #9. Let sit a few and start running patches till they come out clean. Then I oil up the snake and run it through a couple of times. Over kill, you bet I like to play with my guns.
After all this if I still have some leading in the barrel, I'll do it all over. :lol:
 

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Mr. Baldy,

I've found those lead removal cloths to be a great help. After drying the bore (after using Hoppe's #9), I cut a patch-size square of this material and run it up and down the bore several passes, using a proper sized jag tip. After a minute or two, follow up with clean dry patch, then oil.

Bob Wright
 

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I use Hoppes #9 and a toothbrush all over. Then Hoppes Gun Oil. It was all part of a $7 cleaning kit. I've also rinsed the whole gun in Simple Green. I tried WD-40 too. I now have Autozone Brake Parts Cleaner to flush the gunk out after I scrub it all loose with Hoppes #9. I hate scrubbing stuff then leaving all that crap in hard-to-get areas in the frame.

AirForceShooter said:
if you do run an oiled patch down the barrel before storing the gun make VERY sure you run a dry patch down it before shooting it. Get that oil OUT!!!

AFS
Why?
 

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I use only a light coat of oil deposited by a patch wrapped around the jag of proper caliber, and lightly oil the chambers. Since I use straight taper cartridges, the amount of oil doesn't hurt anything in the chamber area nor do I use enough to risk bulging the barrel.

A light coat of oil hurts nothing unless using bottleneck cartridges in revolver chambers, which will result in case set-back.

Bob Wright
 

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Patches

:-D Thanks for the information Bob but where do you get those patches at?? I never heard of them.
Propellerhead I use brake fluid some times my self. Just be sure you use the Non-Chlorinated type as chorine can have a bad effect on plastics and teflon. It will cause it to gall. :lol:
 

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I know there are shortcuts - buying basically the same chemical - just one that's for another use - in order to save money.

But, after spending so much money on my guns, I'd rather just buy the right thing :)
 
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