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I hope you get it fixed and I hope you can trust it because a Flawless Operating Gun is the best kind to have . I had a similar experience and have learned if it's working right and shooting tight ...leave it alone !

Gary
I agree with the old adage: if it ain't broke don't fix it. However, a Beretta 92 I had, I upgraded with a Bar-Sto stainless 4.25" barrel. What a bear to fit: using a flat file I used a lot of elbow grease on the breech face until it ran perfectly. Before that it was just too tight & wouldn't lock up. Later I sold it anyway. ( facepalm).

However, I'm thinking I will post up & sell my 92X Centurion. After pinching my palm after press checking it, I'm less than thrilled with an older design.After a week I still have a healing blood blister. If interested, I will give someone here a first crack at it. It has some interesting addons like a Hogue grey/black G10 grip, and a de-cocker to boot...


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I agree with the old adage: if it ain't broke don't fix it. However, a Beretta 92 I had, I upgraded with a Bar-Sto stainless 4.25" barrel. What a bear to fit: using a flat file I used a lot of elbow grease on the breech face until it ran perfectly. Before that it was just too tight & wouldn't lock up. Later I sold it anyway. ( facepalm).

However, I'm thinking I will post up & sell my 92X Centurion. After pinching my palm after press checking it, I'm less than thrilled with an older design.After a week I still have a healing blood blister. If interested, I will give someone here a first crack at it. It has some interesting addons like a Hogue grey/black G10 grip, and a de-cocker to boot...


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While I have never tried to fit a Beretta Barrel, I have 1911s, and a few Sig Sauer Classic models over the years. I did use "lug files" for the 1911s, but have used stones on Sigs.

Bar Sto Barrels, even the "Pre-Fit/Drop-in" versions need fitting, even though they are fully finish chambered. Even Sig factory Barrels may need a few passes with a stone for a proper fit into the Slide. I've found it's not so much the tightness of the fit that creates accuracy, but the consistency in lock-up and quality of the Barrel, regardless of brand!
 

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After pinching my palm after press checking it, I'm less than thrilled with an older design.After a week I still have a healing blood blister. I
I did that once 20 years ago with a 1911. It does hurt like hell!

That can happen with many different guns. I've owned 41 Beretta 92 variants over 30 years. NEVER had that happen to me with a Beretta 92. Just a fluke, I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
just heard back from the cerakote guy about my beretta. Took it back to him today and he said he accidentally put the sear spring in backwards. Said it was fixed. Might try to sneak over to the range tomorrow and make sure it functions properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
So he fixed it today. Said he put the sear pin in backwards and also made the takedown leaver back to normal operation. (Takedown was so stiff after cerakote I had to use a nylon rod to push it down). Brought it home to fire without lubing and had multiple failure to feeds. I’m hoping the lube will take care of it as I always lube all my guns. Cerakote guy told me I didn’t have to lube because it was ceramic on ceramic. Shoulda known he was full of shit, but lesson learned.
 

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So he fixed it today. Said he put the sear pin in backwards and also made the takedown leaver back to normal operation. (Takedown was so stiff after cerakote I had to use a nylon rod to push it down). Brought it home to fire without lubing and had multiple failure to feeds. I’m hoping the lube will take care of it as I always lube all my guns. Cerakote guy told me I didn’t have to lube because it was ceramic on ceramic. Shoulda known he was full of shit, but lesson learned.
Berettas need to be run wet. Try again with lube. Lube the frame rails, the slide rails, and where the locking block rides inside the slide. Also lube the moving pin by the locking block.
 

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I got the Beretta back from getting cerakote and it looks awesome…however now the takedown lever is so hard I have to use a nylon pushrod to get it down and when I got it home, I realized the hammer would not stay back leaving it in a constant state of DA. I’m not exactly happy getting back a gun that looks better, but functions like crap. It functioned flawless before and was one of my favs. He is supposed to fix the hammer and says it’s “simple”. We’ll see. As for the takedown lever, he claims the tolerances are so tight in Berettas, they just come out that way after cerakote, but will work it’s way into being easier the more I use it. Thoughts? So far, I’m pretty pissed. Thoughts, ideas??
I changed the guide rod in a Beretta m9 at the takedown lever became super hard to move. The rod turned out to be less than 1 mm longer than stock. The cerakote could have added some length to the rod
 

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My guess is that some of the cerakote overspray got into the hole in the frame. Which can easily be removed using a piece of 400 grit wet or dry rolled around a punch or nail, placing it in the hole then turning it around inside the hole several times until the cerakote is removed. Of course the frame would have to be completely disassembled and thoroughly cleaned when done. I doubt that any of the internal parts were cerakoted because of the time and effort to prepare those parts. Unless of course the customer requested it. In which case all of the cerakote on the bearing surfaces on those tiny little parts would have to be carefully removed and it would take a considerable amount of time doing so.
 

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I did that once 20 years ago with a 1911. It does hurt like hell!

That can happen with many different guns. I've owned 41 Beretta 92 variants over 30 years. NEVER had that happen to me with a Beretta 92. Just a fluke, I think.
My own damn fault. Only fingers please, keep the palm high. On a great condition PX4 Compact I just obtained on a trade plus $50, I got the other side of same palm up against the FS style safety I just installed ouch so I guess I'm not so bright lately. This had "stealth" levers on it and they were nearly impossible to activate. In the parts box now.


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