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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I have tried to disassemble my Beretta mod. 70 7.65 but I have failed to do it. I have switched the slide lock to disassembly but instead of pulling the upper part to the front I have pulled it backwards and the pistol now is jammed I cannot shift the slide lock again!!!

Can anyone help in this issue ... I really love my pistol and need assistant.

I have attached a photo on how is my pistol is look like now:

WP_20150317_00_33_30_Smart[1].jpg WP_20150317_00_33_30_Smart[1].jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have searched almost all the videos, I didn't find any showing how to disassemble the slide lock!
 

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According to this diagram you have the takedown latch in the correct position for take down. According to the diagram it says to Hold pistol in left hand (tap muzzle against a wooden surface to loosen barrel) before takedown. Id try running a fair amount of lube down the rails from the back and giving the barrel a light tap as directed above to see if that won't loosen it. A qualified gunsmith may be your best bet if it won't work.

Beretta Web 70 Series
 

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Wow, what a great site.

I may be able to help you with your 70, but be careful as depending how bad your jam is you may need gunsmithing.

As far as I can tell, your 70 is just like the 71 except for the cartridge. The barrel should be held to the frame by friction. I found excessive oil/dirt will make it difficult to remove, but the tight barrel frame connection makes for better accuracy.

The 71 I added to my collection (96a1, 87t, 84B-w[early f model]) had the faux suppressor on the end which I have removed. Took about 15 minutes.

To get the barrel/slide assembly off I actually removed the locking cylinder but you should not need to do this. This is the part that rotates in front of the trigger. I only did this once as I cleaned and polished the the frame to remove a little of the snugness where the barrel slides on. You can test the friction with just the barrel - don't push too hard - and clean more if it is too tight.

As a note, tapping the muzzle makes the barrel tighter on the frame.

Now with the Unloaded gun - [no magazine right] and the locking cylinder lever forward [toward the muzzle], cock the hammer. Now place a solid wood block against the back of the slide and gently tap the slide/barrel off the frame [in the direction the bullet would go].

If you decide to remove the locking cylinder, which may help in removing the barrel, you will need to do two things at the same time:
1. Pull the return spring rod (under the barrel - if the slide is back part of this rod should be visible)...... forward about 1/2 inch so as the T part is not in the cylinder
2. from the safety side - push the locking cylinder out of the frame.

Again double check this as my Mod.71 locking cylinder was held in by friction. Some guns have small locking pins that hold cylinders in place and can go flying.

edit: Your picture is now visible. Does the slide move at all? The locking cylinder is in the correct position for removal. I'm afraid you might have to tap the slide pretty hard, but as the gun looks partially disassembled, there may be another piece locking the slide.

*** I see the trigger is missing. Perhaps something else is jammed against the slide - part of the safety-sear linkage. This is looking like gunsmith work.
 

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Beretta model 70 like new woes

Wow, what a great site.

I may be able to help you with your 70, but be careful as depending how bad your jam is you may need gunsmithing.

As far as I can tell, your 70 is just like the 71 except for the cartridge. The barrel should be held to the frame by friction. I found excessive oil/dirt will make it difficult to remove, but the tight barrel frame connection makes for better accuracy.

The 71 I added to my collection (96a1, 87t, 84B-w[early f model]) had the faux suppressor on the end which I have removed. Took about 15 minutes.

To get the barrel/slide assembly off I actually removed the locking cylinder but you should not need to do this. This is the part that rotates in front of the trigger. I only did this once as I cleaned and polished the the frame to remove a little of the snugness where the barrel slides on. You can test the friction with just the barrel - don't push too hard - and clean more if it is too tight.

As a note, tapping the muzzle makes the barrel tighter on the frame.

Now with the Unloaded gun - [no magazine right] and the locking cylinder lever forward [toward the muzzle], cock the hammer. Now place a solid wood block against the back of the slide and gently tap the slide/barrel off the frame [in the direction the bullet would go].

If you decide to remove the locking cylinder, which may help in removing the barrel, you will need to do two things at the same time:
1. Pull the return spring rod (under the barrel - if the slide is back part of this rod should be visible)...... forward about 1/2 inch so as the T part is not in the cylinder
2. from the safety side - push the locking cylinder out of the frame.

Again double check this as my Mod.71 locking cylinder was held in by friction. Some guns have small locking pins that hold cylinders in place and can go flying.

edit: Your picture is now visible. Does the slide move at all? The locking cylinder is in the correct position for removal. I'm afraid you might have to tap the slide pretty hard, but as the gun looks partially disassembled, there may be another piece locking the slide.

*** I see the trigger is missing. Perhaps something else is jammed against the slide - part of the safety-sear linkage. This is looking like gunsmith work.
Thanks CW this post saved me. Took a little Beretta mod 70 on a trade could not get it apart. Directions worked great!!!
Thanks
Rick
 
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