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  1. #1
    coolhand35 is offline Junior Member
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    Question about model 82 taurus .38 special

    I just bought a used Taurus model 82 .38 special from gander mountain. The reason i bought it is cause they had it at a good price. After purchasing it i went to the indoor range and put about 150 rounds through it. The problem i was having was sometimes when i would push the cylider in it would sometimes not want to go in smoothly so i had to force it in to lock like something was stoping it from going in but it did not look like anuthing was catching it and it did not happen everytime. Also sometimes while i was firing it in double action it would sometimes be very hard to pull the trigger before it fired almost like it was hanging up and it also would not happen every time. It fired fine and smooth when i cocked the hammer each time and shot it single action. The gun seemed pretty old and had some ware and was pretty dirty and had alot of grime where the cylinder locks in and the trigger seemed dirty also. Has anyone heard of this issue or experienced themselves? If so any comments would be very appreciated...Thanx!!

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  3. #2
    Steve M1911A1's Avatar
    Steve M1911A1 is online now Senior Member
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    Have you cleaned it thoroughly? Does the same thing still happen after it has been cleaned?

    It is possible that the cylinder will close more easily if you press the cylinder release until the cylinder has been fully seated. Still, this is not a good thing.

    It is possible that your pistol's cylinder suffers from end-shake. That is, the cylinder is somewhat free to move fore and aft on its arbor, even though it is fully seated.
    If the cylinder has end-shake, each cartridge will set back as it is fired, and will press against the recoil shield. This will cause enough friction that trigger-cocking (firing DA) becomes difficult.
    End-shake could also cause the closing cylinder to hang-up on the recoil shield, as you try to close it.

    Fully close the empty cylinder, but do not cock the hammer. Now, try to move the cylinder forward and backward within its mortise. If it moves noticeably, it suffers from end-shake.
    The cure is to place a shim on the cylinder arbor, ahead of the cylinder. This is a job for a good gunsmith.

    (Your gun may have been put on sale by its previous owner because of end-shake.)

  4. #3
    coolhand35 is offline Junior Member
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    Thanx Steve! I gave it a good cleaning and it seems to function well. Is it ok to dry fire a few times. Im not familiar with revolvers! Also how do you fully disassemble a revolver? Is there a video on youtube or could you maybe explain the steps? If not no problem i might be able to figure it out..Thanx alot!!

  5. #4
    Steve M1911A1's Avatar
    Steve M1911A1 is online now Senior Member
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    Yes, you can safely dry-fire a center-fire revolver, but a much better idea is to use snap-caps, dummy cartridges specially made for dry-fire-practice use. Get some: They're cheap insurance.
    Don't try to disassemble your revolver. It's not an amateur's job. Leave it to a good gunsmith.

    If you have an end-shake problem, you will only see it if you try to move the cylinder, or if you shoot the gun.
    If the problem you wrote about persists, you need to visit a good gunsmith.

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