Yes, I'm new so bear with me.
I'd like to read pros and cons about using graphite for a gun lubricant
It's slick and dry.
It won't gum up with burnt powder.
It won't evaporate or thin out with heat.
It won't drain or migrate.
It won't wear out.
A five-cent pencil should last a lifetime.
It won't cushion a blow.
It won't penetrate.
Will it preserve?
Where should it be used?
Where should it not be used?
Talk to me.
I would suggest these alternatives that are made specifically for weapon lubrication.
Militec – 1
Steel Shield's Weapon's Shield
graphite - great for pine-wood derby.
Firearms.... I don't think it does well with heat and burning stuff.
It seems to me I'm cleaning graphite off my guns [burnt powder] and particle fouling is not a good thing.
Am I right that to get good lubrication, you need a thicker amount of graphite? That will cause problems on higher tolerance firearms.
Besides, I don't see the graphite motor oils anymore, maybe because its difficult to tell dirt from that kind of lubricant.
Graphite is a very good lubricant.
But, it readily falls off. It doesn't remain in place.
That's why it was commonly mixed with oil or grease, "back in the day."
Also, back then, it was found that Molybdenum disulfide, also in grease, worked better than did graphite.
Don't use a pencil "lead." That isn't pure graphite.
Pencil "lead" contains quite a lot of powdered clay, which is an abrasive.
Modern lubricants tend to use Teflon, instead of graphite.
Some of those formulŠ work pretty well indeed.
In my mind, guns need pretty constant attention. I therefore suggest that you won't do well, using a "permanent" lubricant.
I use only simple oil, except on my Garand (which needs Moly grease). I recommend Ballistol, but anything, including old-fashion 2-in-1, will do the job.
Break-Free is all you need.
Ballistol, Hoppes #9 and Tetra grease work fine on all my firearms.
US made Ruger, Springfield, Remington: ..... Frog lube
Euro Beretta, SigSauer, CZ: ..... Hoppes gun oil