You can always send it back to the Springfield Custom Shop and have it done, but be advised that you will have to have the frame refinished no matter if if you go with stippling or checkering. I prefer 30LPI checkering, but that's just me.
Can anyone suggest a method to checker the front strap?
Not sure if there is anyone in Arkansas that offers this service. If I am crazy to do this let me know that as well.
I just think the checkering will provide a better grip to keep slippage to a minimum.
Thanks.
You can always send it back to the Springfield Custom Shop and have it done, but be advised that you will have to have the frame refinished no matter if if you go with stippling or checkering. I prefer 30LPI checkering, but that's just me.
This is how I dealt wit that on my Springer (Link)
I think Ron Phillips is in Arkansas and it will cost about $230 to do the front strap. If you have never done it before you might want to give the pro a call. Good luck.
Because you can't refinish "part" of the frame. MOST of the finishes are applied by bathing the part, not air brushing it. And most places that I'm familiar with do charge for the refinishing.
You could always buy either a Pierce or Hogue grip with finger grooves. Pierce actually sells a grip which allows you to use the original grip panels, but has rubber grooves on the front strap.
There's also the Wilson Combat checkered front strap, but I'd rather either just replace the grip or have it doe right.
Also keep in mind that changing the grip panels to something a little less slick than the factory grips could alleviate your problem. I favor grips from VZ GRIPS (VZGRIPS.COM) made of G10.
For a FYI, if you want to see how checkering/stippling is done, you can see a pretty good overview at On Target Custom's website . Links or on the left side, bottom "buttons".
Before you buy, try:
(This is how the Brownell's part works, too.)
Loosen the grip panels. Cut a piece of medium-grit sandpaper to stretch across the frontstrap and be trapped by the grip panels. Screw the grip panels down to trap the sandpaper. Shoot.
You can do the same over the mainspring housing, too.
Compliment your sandpaper additions by switching to dead-smooth grip panels.
Checkered grip panels do nothing to control a 1911. All control is achieved by the adhesiveness of your grasp of front- and backstraps.
Further, smooth grip panels help make speedier reloads, letting you more smoothly rotate the gun's grip to bring the magazine release under your thumb.
I am sure the sandpaper or tape would work fine. Ordered one from Brownell's. If anything I'll decide if I like the checkering well enough to send it back to SA and get it done.
Thanks.
i've got the vz alien grips in the tiger stripe color. g10 material, these are great grips, offer superb traction without the usuall aggressiveness.![]()
My feeling exactly.
I have used the tape on a couple of guns with horrific to great results.
Browning Buckmark
Sig 220 SAO
I tried it on my Springfield (honest to God blued) and it didn't fare so well. The bluing looks like crap now that I removed the tape and it wasn't on that long. I'm not upset as one of these days the gun is going to go to Springfield for custom work and I plan on having the front strap checkered and the frame bobtailed which will require refinishing anyway.
It works OK, it flakes off at times and for some people it's too aggressive, I took some sand paper to the tape and it was still grippy without being too rough. It worked well with my Sig and I love it on my Buckmark.
However I have to disagree with you Steve on the smooth panels. Having more grip on the panels does help, generally speaking, you have more surface contact with your palm then your fingers and while checkering or other form of texture does help more than grips in most cases, a good set of grips can go along way to increase control without altering frame or adding something via adhesive.
If Hogue made grip panels with the palm swell for the Officers framed 1911s, I would suggest those as they worked wonders for my 5" Colt XSE that had a smooth front strap. Currently they reside on my Dad's LW Commander and they do make a good difference.
"checkering will provide a better grip to keep slippage to a minimum."
I think it does give a better grip, almost all of my guns are checker there.
I do not think that you have to have it on a larger gun that you can get a good "full" hand grip on.
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Please remember that the sandpaper idea, as well as the skateboard tape, was only for a try-before-you-buy experience.
Neither is meant to be a permanent solution, although the skateboard tape does last a long time.
If the rough surface works for you (as it does for me), then get the front-strap checkered (and the backstrap too, if it isn't already textured—but only do its lower section).
I, as the OP, really appreciate everyone's input and suggestions. I went ahead and ordered one of those checkered front strap pieces from Brownell's. If I like it, I'll send my gun to SA and have them do the job for me.
Their custom shop offers several other enhancements. And if I send it in I may just have a few custom touches done. Afterall, I really believe this is one gun I will not part with.
Again thank you for all the feedback.
I hate to be the bringer of bad news, but according to Wilson's fit codes, the front strap won't fit an officers model...which a Springfield Micro falls under frame wise...
http://www.wilsoncombat.com/info_fit_codes.htm
A Wilson Combat, Colt, Kimber, Springfield, US Military, Norinco, & Caspian Government Model/Enhanced Government Model (5" barrel with full sized frame) Rock Island Armor, ARMSCOR, Taurus, STI , SV
B Colt Commander/Combat Commander/1991 A1 Commander, Norinco Commander Model (4 1/2" barrel with full sized frame)
C Colt Officers Model/LW Officers Model/1991 A1 Compact (3 1/2" barrel with officers/compact sized frame)
D Wilson Combat, Kimber, and Springfield Armory Compact Model (4" barrel with compact sized frame)
E Springfield Armory Champion and Kimber Pro Model (4" with full sized frame)
F Safari Arms Matchmaker
G Safari Arms Enforcer
H Detonics Scoremaster
I Detonics Combatmaster
J Caspian Hi-Cap
K Strayer-Tripp-Voigt 2011
L Para-Ordnance P-12
M Para-Ordnance P-13
N Para-Ordnance P-14
O Colt Gold Cup, AMT Hardballer
P Colt Double Eagle
Hopefully you can "make it fit"
If not, no worries, Brownells has a "No Hassle" return policy.
No problem:
It's thin metal. You can probably cut it with household scissors, or a utility knife. Worst case, use a cold chisel. It might not be pretty, but it'll work.
Make the cut at the bottom, not at the top. Smooth it out as best you can—maybe fold the bottom edge over the mag-well lip. Burnish it in place with the thin shaft of a small-blade screwdriver.
Don't use your wife's best sewing scissors, though.
Nothing is easy is it!
....Well I'm going to be brutally honest here.
The $24.95 solution to fix your problem would have been to just order a pair of Hogue wrap around rubber grips.
As I said in your holster thread, you have be be careful with the details. As you didn't specify what model gun you're talking about modifying, not everyone will give you the correct info that you are looking for. Also while Brownells is usually pretty good about the descriptions of their parts, it's ultimately up to you to make sure that you are buying the right stuff. They used to list the Wilson part fit code on their website, but that was before the change. I may dig a little deeper on their website and see if it's still there, if not I'll either give them a call or inquire about it the next time I stop in.
I the long run, it's only as hard as you make it.
JD, you're right! My bad, as they say! Hogue grips are fine, but why would someone want to give up nice wood grips for rubber?
I am awaiting an answer from the SA custom shop. Once I hear from them I'll decide my next move. I have some A-Grip material that I may try to use as you did the tape and sandpaper. My goal is not to take away from the looks of the gun. So I may just spring for the custom checkering. Like the old saying goes, "in for a penny, in for a pound."
Ijust wish I could find someone here locally that could do it. I hate sending guns through any means, the chance of it coming up missing in shipment is pretty high!
Of course I could just use a glove when I shoot. But then that doesn't do much for a real life situation!!!!
Thanks again for all your help and advice.