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  1. #1
    Shipwreck's Avatar
    Shipwreck is offline HGF Forum Moderator
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    My new MC Operator

    OK - I picked this up today. It was a tossup between a new Kimber SIS or the MC Operator from Springfield. I went with the Operator. I've been 1911-less for a while now...



    I have had a few Springfields over the years - the last being a TRP. I was very disappointed with the accuracy of that TRP (which I no longer have). However - this MC Operator is spot on. I was SUPER impressed with it when I was on the range today.

    The thing is super tight. The dealer told me that they got 3 in last month, and they has 2 left. 2 of the 3 were SUPER tight - as tight as the Nighthawks they have forsale - they claimed. I picked the one that was the tightest. In fact - it was difficult to pull the slide back at first - and I started to wonder if I should get the looser one.

    But, I did go with the one I initially picked out. Not a mark on the gun either... And, its been a long time since I fooled with a GI guiderod setup, as most of my 1911s have always had FLGR's.

    Anyway - I am very happy with my choice. In order to do it - I had to promise my wife that I'd get no more guns for the next 12 months. And, I still have to finish paying this one off with my gun allowance and upcoming Christmas present money

    Hopefully, this will help me get over the "next gun obsession I always seem to be suffering from.

  2. #2
    Shipwreck's Avatar
    Shipwreck is offline HGF Forum Moderator
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    I always thought that if I got one of these - I'd put these version of the pachmeyer grips on it - it looks awesome:



    However - I've had 1911s with Hogue grips with fingergrooves before - as well as a Beretta 92 with them once. I never got hooked onto grips with fingergrooves.

    So, despite looking awesome, I'm gonna stick with the stock grips.

  3. #3
    sniper350 is offline Junior Member
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    Sweet looking 1911 !! I use the grips you have pictured with the finger grooves and I love them. I do however, change the MSH unit to the Arched design. I like the way it forces a high hold on the weapon, without much effort on my part. YMMV !

    This pistol will hold your attention for at least a year -smile- there are all kinds of customizing you can do to keep you interested.

    Since you have been away from the design for awhile ........first order of business is to learn to completely strip the weapon in under 2 minutes - down to the last small pin. Not really hard to do , but you would be surprised at how many owners are afraid to go past the field strip phase.
    JB,s design is simple and eligant .............

    Check your hammer hooks on that bad boy and see if you have at least
    .020 inches in height. SA has been installing hammers with smaller and smaller hooks ......... I guess to improve trigger pull at the mass production level.

    JF.

  4. #4
    Shipwreck's Avatar
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    Well, I will honestly admit that while I've probably owned 6 1911s over the years - I only know how to field strip it - sorry. I can take the slide completely apart on my Walther P99 - but thats the only 1.

    The trigger is actually pretty sweet. Not loose at all, and no play. I was actually very surprised, as most of the loaded models on the Springfields do not have that great of a trigger.

  5. #5
    Mike Barham's Avatar
    Mike Barham is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by sniper350 View Post
    first order of business is to learn to completely strip the weapon in under 2 minutes - down to the last small pin.
    Errrrr...what would that accomplish? It's not like anyone is ever called upon to detail strip a pistol at high speed. You detail strip a pistol when you have the luxury of time and a place appropriate to do it.

    Back when I carried a 1911, I detail stripped it once a year or so. Never saw a need to hurry, though.
    Employed by Galco Gunleather - www.galcogunleather.com / Veteran OEF VIII

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  6. #6
    zhurdan's Avatar
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    @ Ship
    Really the only thing you need to keep an eye on is the extractor. That's a pretty easy thing to take down if it's an internal extractor. You just pull the slide off the pistol, and

    1. wear safety goggles so a spring don't shoot you in the eyeball.
    2. depress the firing pin block on the bottom of the slide.
    3. with it depressed, press in the firing pin from the rear with a small screwdriver passed the little piece of metal that it goes thru.
    4. pull down on the screw driver to start it sliding out of it's slot
    5. once it starts sliding down, let go of firing pin block and be careful to not let the firing pin fly out when you get the little piece of metal all the way down.
    6. if firing pin doesn't fly out, depress the firing pin block to get it and the spring out.
    7. extractor should come out the back of the pistol now.
    8. clean out extrator area and extractor and reverse proceedure.

    Taking down the mainspring really isn't that important and it's a bit more difficult to do.

    I wish I knew what the hell that little piece of metal that retains the firing pin was called.... anyone... anyone Beuhler... Beuhler.....


    Zhur

  7. #7
    Mike Barham's Avatar
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    It's called a firing pin stop.
    Employed by Galco Gunleather - www.galcogunleather.com / Veteran OEF VIII

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  8. #8
    zhurdan's Avatar
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    *slaps forehead*

    btw.. nice pistol Ship

    Zhur

  9. #9
    Shipwreck's Avatar
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    Thanks.

    I like the XD45 that I got about 2 months back - but honestly - this 1911 is much better. I kinda wish I would have bought it first. But, I'll keep the XD.

    The XD trigger job I was planning will have to wait until the 1st of the year, though - as I have to finish paying this off first

  10. #10
    Justice_Guy's Avatar
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    That is very sexy!

  11. #11
    Shipwreck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justice_Guy View Post
    That is very sexy!
    Thanks...


  12. #12
    sniper350 is offline Junior Member
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    Hi MIKE -

    To answer your question: SPEED is not all that important, but it does indicate METHODOLOGY.......... and that is important when working with weapons!

    Speed should only be used as a "ruler" to aid the gunsmith in learning how smooth he is working towards a certain goal. In this case the Dissassembly of the 1911.

    I have always taught that stripping and cleaning a weapon is more of a "SAFETY check" then it is trying to remove grime or powder residue. AS you know parts can crack or show signs of failure long before the weapon might stop working .........and it is my stripping and cleaning routine ,that is designed to try and catch these problems before they bite me on the street where I might need the weapon to save my life.

    2 Minutes ?? If you can completely strip your 1911 in that minimal amount of time .........what excuse do you have NOT to do so? For me, it is almost criminal for me not to closely examine the internal parts of my 1911's, but for only once a year. Others are certainly free to disagree and I respect their decision to hope for the best.

    I like to keep a close eye on the Sear's primary and Secondary angles for signs of unusual wear or perhaps even "chipping". I like to inspect the Disconnect channel & Disconnect itself as this part is very important and takes a lot of mechanical movement in its functioning. The most important object in my cleaning supplies is NOT a bottle of Hoppes #9 but it is a Jewelers LOOP . I guess I fall into the catagory of being very Annal when it comes to my firearms ......... and for this confess.

    When you said "Back when I carried a 1911, I detail stripped it once a year or so" ............. it sent a chill up my spine. I must admit, you are a braver person than I .......... I could never muster that much trust in those tiny metal parts for that long of a time, without close examination <smile>

    Shipwreck - be glad to send you web addresses where they give detailed instructions on 1911 service.

    JF.

  13. #13
    Shipwreck's Avatar
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    Yes - please send me the URLs in a PM.

  14. #14
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by zhurdan;123243[INDENT
    1. wear safety goggles so a spring don't shoot you in the eyeball.
    2. depress the firing pin block on the bottom of the slide.
    3. with it depressed, press in the firing pin from the rear with a small screwdriver passed the little piece of metal that it goes thru.
    4. pull down on the screw driver to start it sliding out of it's slot
    5. once it starts sliding down, let go of firing pin block and be careful to not let the firing pin fly out when you get the little piece of metal all the way down.
    6. if firing pin doesn't fly out, depress the firing pin block to get it and the spring out.
    7. extractor should come out the back of the pistol now.
    8. clean out extrator area and extractor and reverse proceedure.[/INDENT]

    Taking down the mainspring really isn't that important and it's a bit more difficult to do.
    Zhur


    Gaaa... This is why I started my collection with a modern polymer frame design and never looked back.

    Congrats on the cool piece though, Shipwreck. If I ever did seriously consider a 1911, I think a similar model would be on my short list.

  16. #16
    R.J.Adams is offline Junior Member
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    That's one sweet shooting iron you got there. I love the finger groove grips.

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