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  1. #1
    ZeusApolloPatrol is offline Junior Member
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    S&W 686/ is this to much?

    I am a semi-auto guy and I don't know much about revolvers. I have the chance to buy a S&W 686 4" combat magnum. The pistol is in very good shape with about 400 rds thru it. Mostly .38's. It is an original 686 with no dashes or the M showing it was sent to S&W for work. It also has the firing pin connected to the hammer. Is $650 to much for this. It has rubber grips and the original sites. The trigger in DA on this gun is phenomenal. Really like it. Thanks for any help.

  2. #2
    berettabone is offline Banned
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    It's a very nice firearm...................revolver prices have seemed to be holding steady....maybe some trigger work was done.....in any case, from what I see in my neck of the woods, it's about average.

  3. #3
    halfmoonclip is offline Junior Member
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    Seems a little high, but it is hard to argue the basic goodness of that revolver. Always thought the 4" barrel was ideal for balance; the longer tubes damped recoil but felt a mite muzzle heavy.
    Moon

  4. #4
    rex
    rex is offline Senior Member
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    Seems a little high but I would give it if I really wanted one.I bought a 586 (blue version) 4" for duty when they came out and regret parting with it.I gave a whole $320 for it NIB.Inflation sucks.

  5. #5
    prof_fate is offline Member
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    Probably depends on the barrel...around here snubbie and 6 inch barrels are the ones in demand. For $650 I'd take it. I'm active over on the SW forums and don't pay too much attention to the dash this or that as I shoot as opposed to collect, but from what I see you have there an early pistol and that seems to be what collectors want.

    My 2" 686-6 was $575 locally. I've seen some for a $25 less. 6" guns new are $800ish, 700 used in like new condition.

    Any idea on what 'trigger work' was done? The PPC guys will go to lighter springs and get nicer triggers but for reliable firing they need to use federal primers (they all handload anyway). Federals are a primer with a thinner metal - the other brands often don't fire reliably as the hammer strikes too lightly. Easy enough to get a stock spring and put it back in though.

    SS is better for shooting and carrying use -sweat, rain won't matter. You can shoot a lot and scrub it clean without fear of damaging the bluing.

    My snubbie is a blast to shoot - I can do bunny loads at 500fps that are nearly as cheap to shoot at 22LR or I can go magnum and do 1400fps. Autos can't offer than kind of versatility.

  6. #6
    rex
    rex is offline Senior Member
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    Very true about the trigger jobs and Federal primers.I remember a lost friend's model 66 you could actually shoot DA with your pinky,but Federal primers still didn't guarrantee a boom.The SA was downright scary.

    I remember an old trick was pump toothpaste in the lockwork,put the sideplate back on and shoot the idiot on tv for the next 1/2 hour.Don't.Certain areas need polishing,others don't.Getting carried away like this changes the whole part and sometimes overly so.Smiths are somewhat forgiving on the parts having wear or overzelous polishing compared to Colts,but it's not the right thing to do.

    Another Smith trick was snipping the rebound spring,don't again.Reduced power springs are the way to go,snipping will usually end up with poor trigger reset.

    If the gun is in time and no cylender endshake,you can't lose buying it unless the bore or muzzle has been damaged.

  7. #7
    brokenback is offline Junior Member
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    I would jump on the 686 if it is in good shape and a newer model that has the holes under the rear sights drilled and tapped so you can add a scope mount for a red dot if you want that option. The 686 is one of tghe smoothest trigger pull in double action.
    I bought one after my surgery so I would not have to pick up brass.
    I loved shooting Hollow Base wad cutters with 4 grains of bulls eye powder. It was an easy load and very accurate. You will love the revolver if it is a newer one in great shape for a good price. I paid $775.00 new for the 5 shot revolver.
    Good luck..

  8. #8
    brokenback is offline Junior Member
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    I would jump on the 686 if it is in good shape and a newer model that has the holes under the rear sights drilled and tapped so you can add a scope mount for a red dot if you want that option. The 686 is one of tghe smoothest trigger pull in double action.
    I bought one after my surgery so I would not have to pick up brass.
    I loved shooting Hollow Base wad cutters with 4 grains of bulls eye powder. It was an easy load and very accurate. You will love the revolver if it is a newer one in great shape for a good price. I paid $725.00 new for the 5 shot revolver with the 4 inch barrel. I was not worried about the 4 inches because I knew I was going to put a red dot sight on it. If I were shooting Iron sights I would want the longer barrel for the better sight radius. The 686 has the best double action trigger I have ever felt, with no work done on them straight out of the box...
    Good luck..

  9. #9
    usmcj's Avatar
    usmcj is offline Member
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    Regardless of what the books say, anything is worth only what you can get for it, or what you pay for it. I've bought several guns for more than book value because I WANTED that particular gun. If it suits you, and you have the money, that's all that counts.

  10. #10
    bassjam04 is offline Junior Member
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    Here in my area thats about average for a used 686 from what Ive seen at shows. Is it through an individual or a dealer? Personally if its a individual ($650 cash )and you like that gun Id jump on it.If its a dealer(fees pushing it over $700),your call.Its not a steal and you can find them if you look,if thats your concern.But as was said above,its only worth what someone can sell it for.So with that said,I dont thing $650 is out of line.

  11. #11
    ZeusApolloPatrol is offline Junior Member
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    Well I bought it. Talked em down to $575. I can live with that. It was a private sale.

  12. #12
    berettabone is offline Banned
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    You did OK.......

  13. #13
    hideit's Avatar
    hideit is offline Senior Member
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    congrats - i think it is the best .357 on the market today

  14. #14
    bassjam04 is offline Junior Member
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    I would agree.I love mine so much Id love to have another.I always keep my eye out for them at shows-If I run across a decent deal Ill grab another.I just found a 686-1 and my dad has had a -4 for years.Both shoot so great.But they are proud of them around here in the DFW area-you can find them but will pay top dollar.

  15. #15
    Nanuk's Avatar
    Nanuk is offline Junior Member
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    That is not a bad price. If I were going to use it for anything but hunting or a range gun I would take it to a Smith armorer and have the "M" mod done. What it does is replace the firing pin bushing. There were some problems with the early ones, don't remember if it was peening or it was a primer flow issue.

  16. #16
    bassjam04 is offline Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nanuk View Post
    That is not a bad price. If I were going to use it for anything but hunting or a range gun I would take it to a Smith armorer and have the "M" mod done. What it does is replace the firing pin bushing. There were some problems with the early ones, don't remember if it was peening or it was a primer flow issue.
    I actually didn't know about the mod when I bought mine.I got such a good deal that when I got home and started reading up on it and found out about it,I figured that was why I got such a good deal and it needed to be done.I looked inside and was thrilled to find out it had already been done.My dads had been done also-little bit of luck there I guess.But I believe you are correct on what the mods were.There were slightly different mods dependin on which version you have I'm thinking.But my understandin is that Smith is great about taking these and doing the mods no questions asked-though I don't know that first hand.

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