Factory P226 Seeks Zero
I'm the new owner of a factory Sig P226 TACOPS 9mm with fixed, Sig NightSights.
On the attached image, POA was the black dot at 10 yds. I ran an identical test with my P229 (reference gun, correctly zeroed), and punched out the black dot with a very similar looking group. So, I gave the 226 over to my local gunsmith, with the instructions: "gun needs zero". The smith self-tested it, and independently found POI to be landing left of his hold. (So, that's some additional verification).
Anyway, I picked the gun up today, and found the smith's test target attached (not pictured). Group on his target was a tad closer to the X, but still landing left. He left me a note saying that he centered the rear sight and verified that the front sight was centered (it was). His note ended with: "this is the best I can do, I'm hesitant to push the front sight." He didn't charge me.
I shot a quick group, and the impact is still to the left of my POA (although admittedly a bit less than my original pic).
What's the correct thing to do here? Should the gun be RMA-ed back to Sig? I'm concerned that Sig will claim that the gun is within factory tolerances. This may be true, but it isn't within my tolerances. If possible, I'd prefer to deal with this issue locally, and without shipping my gun away. Thoughts? Advice?
I just want my gun at zero. I'm ok with paying for it.
Btw, this 226 was intended to be my new IDPA gun. I'm wishing that I just picked up the x-five...
229 Elite Dark
Not sure why my IMG tags aren't showing (maybe https?)
Here are the direct links:
226 TACOPS https://www.dropbox.com/s/eg9eoei1lx...%2013%20PM.jpg
229 Elite Dark
Sig nor your gunsmith will be able to get zero unless they either use a sighting lazer( which should get it close) or preferably bench rest the pistol for groups. Bench rest the pistol yourself for groups and drift the rear sight accordingly. Sounds like you need to go a tad right. I prefer to have my front sight centered and drift the rear. You can purchase a sight adjusting tool or use a dowel or punch w/ a hammer to drift the rear sight. You move the rear sight either way you want the bullet to impact. If it's shooting left move the rear sight right and vis-versa. The front sight is opposite but like I said I prefer to have the front sight centered and only drift the rear.
Roger that. Rear drifted to the right. Is there a preference between punches and pushers for stock sig NightSights?
I'll go along with a slight movement of the rear sight over to the right. (The rear sight might LOOK centered to your eye when, in fact, it is ever so slightly off.) What I wouldn't use on any set of night sights is a wooden dowel and hammer, though. Another thing you can do is start looking for wear marks along the right side of the barrel, the left rail, and/or the left side of the barrel lug. If there are no unusual wear marks then it's got to be the rear sight. (Front sights are usually very obvious when they're off.)
I recently went through this with a G-19. The other Range Officer who tested it felt the pistol was shooting slightly to the left; but nobody could tell for sure. It took myself and the services of another (highly-skilled) gunsmith to figure out that the rear sight was off by less than .001 inch. (You really couldn't see it while looking down at the top of the slide; and we had to use a caliper, and take several measurements across the width of the slide in order to figure things out.) When the rear sight was, 'nudged' ever so slightly to the right the group immediately straightened out. Your group doesn't look much different from what I was getting at the same distance. Whatever the cause, and whatever the case, your SIG is going to require only a very small adjustment.
NOTE: Before you do anything you might want to try different ammo or, maybe, a different weight bullet.
I admitted the truth: I just wasn't "clicking" with the TACOPS. I wanted to love it, but it was frustrating me - and it wasn't just about zeroing the gun. The factory (Checkmate) mags are complete trash. Just worthless. And, the size of the gun was a tad big for my hands. Whatever. Problem solved by swapping the TACOPS for a 229-R Elite Scorpion. I shot these 3 groups of 5 before leaving the store:
Thrilled with the gun.
And thrilled with the dead-zero POA/POI.
Thanks for the comments guys.
In the end, breaking up was the right thing to do.
What! Another failure for, 'internet gunsmithing'! In any case I did say that only a slight adjustment would be necessary; what I didn't take into consideration was that getting rid of the gun might be one of them!
(Too much, 'thumb' on the backstrap - Huh! I never would have guessed from your other target. Appreciate your candor; thanks for sharing the outcome with everybody.)
Haha- I swear this isn't a net-smithing failure (but, that literally made me laugh out loud)
Originally Posted by Glock Doctor
Here's how it went down:
I was talking with the gun shop manager (where I purchased the TACOPS), about my frustrations with the gun. I was playing with the 229R Elite while talking, and he made me a great offer: $200 to swap guns (TACOPS for the Scorpion). It didn't require much thinking; I wanted out of the TACOPS, period.
15 minutes later, I was shooting the Scorpion : )
For those who are interested:
226 TACOPS MSRP: $1308
229 Elite Scorpion TB MSRP: $1356
If MSRP prices are used, I got an $1150 credit for my TACOPS (which is insane).
This is the actual breakdown, as shown on my receipt:
Price of the Scorpion: $850
Trade value of my TACOPS: -$650
Cash due: $200
Done and done.
How did you drift the rear sight that is fixed in place ? You only adjust the front sight.
The p226 absolutely has driftable rear sights. They sit in a dovetail (like the front).
wow you have to look very hard to see it. slide it much and it will be sticking out the dove tail groove.
Lol, yeah - they didn't leave much room on the sides.
Fortunately, the amount of required adjustment for zero is (typically) a tiny, tiny amount.
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