shooting lead reloads?
Will it hurt an SP2022 40.? My neighbor just gave me 150 some lead reloads 180 grain, (looks like the powder says wolf sr?) that he didn't have any need for(doesn't have any 40. guns) I trust him that he'd done them right, he's very picky about how he does things. I know sigs warranty says it voids it, but how will they know?
Generally speaking, I never shoot reloads of any kind from anyone.
The only person I'd ever trust to reload, would be me, and I don't reload.
But, to answer your question, if you shoot reloads and you have an issue, you're gonna have to deal with it. And.......SIG will know.......one way or the other.
Why was your neighbor reloading for .40, when he doesn't have any .40 guns?
I don't trust reloads made by anybody but me...and one or two close friends whom I know to be as careful as I am.
Certainly, I won't ever use gun-shop bulk reloads.
What kind of powder is "wolf sr"?
Am I so far out of the loop that it's something new about which I know nothing?
If you trust the re-loader and he or she knows what they are doing, go for it. Keep in mind lead fouls much quicker than copper jacketed bullets and do not shoot copper jacketed bullets after you shoot lead until you have cleaned all the lead from the bore of the barrel. Shoot one or the other would be my advice during a range session. If you blow up the pistol due to bad reloads that's an issue you will have to assume responsibility for. If that was the case and you returned the pistol under warranty I would wager that would be the first question the manufacturer would ask. Is the powder used by the reloader for .40 cal pistol ammunition. Likewise, I don't believe wolf sr is the powder used but is the primer designation. Wolf sr(i.e small rifle) are primers.
He used to have 40. guns.
Originally Posted by Steve M1911A1
@denner, ahhh ok thanks for the information, maybe ill just hold on to these for awhile to make sure the gun gets broke in better, or I'm feeling more confident. I used to go shooting with the neighbor that reloaded these and I've shot a bunch of his reloads through his guns, but I just got my 2022 and I'm in love with it, hate to see anything happen to it.
Your Sig is fine for cast lead.
Worrying about cleaning before you shoot jacketed ammo is probably unnecessary in most cases. I've never had any noteworthy leading in my .40s. If there's no lead residue, then there is no need to worry about jacketed following them. So...if you think it might be an issue, check your barrel first. But shooting a few cast loads doesn't necessarily mean you're going to suddenly have a lead lined sewer pipe. I've never given a second thought about shooting jacketed after cast. But then I know that my cast loads don't have a leading problem. IMHO, aside from load testing new combos, if your cast loads leave so much lead fouling that shooting jacketed afterwards is downright dangerous, your cast reloads suck.
Keep in mind lead fouls much quicker than copper jacketed bullets and do not shoot copper jacketed bullets after you shoot lead until you have cleaned all the lead from the bore of the barrel.
That said, I don't shoot other people's reloads and I don't let others shoot my reloads. Nothing personal, it's just better for all concerned, I'll never be liable for other people's gun or fingers.
With all that's been said, I'll probably just save them back for another day, maybe another gun without a warranty like this, or maybe a used gun I get down the road, rather not take the chance on this new one. Thanks guys.
Originally Posted by Overkill0084
Perhaps, but the OP may or may not know about leading of the barrel, or how hot the reloads are, or how soft the lead bullet used. Some claim shooting copper jacketed after lead cleans the lead from the barrel. Other's claim the lead can be "ironed" into the barrel rather than "pushed out". Also, it is never a good idea to shoot ANY firearm with anything obstructing the bore in ANY way. The OP not knowing these facts nor the reloads he's shooting, I felt it necessary to give him a heads up. He very well could have shot all 150 reloads not knowing to check the barrel for lead residue. Nor knowing 150 hot reloads with soft lead may compound the fouling in the barrel and create unsafe pressure levels. Until of course the OP has as much experience shooting lead cast reloads as yourself, I just felt best advising on the safe side.
I've shot probably 1000 lead reloaded rounds through various guns of my neighbors, I knew they were lead but I didn't know any of the above information ^^, I get what you're saying about it may or may not clean its self out and cleaning it by hand to be on the safe side. If I ever do shoot these I'll most likely clean the bore after using those.
Originally Posted by denner
I also have a little slip he filled out(he does that with all his reloads) it says
180gr LTN <--bullet weight, brand
5grs w-231 <--powder (I'm pretty sure it says 5grs) or 50gs I don't know, what sounds....more correct?
Wolf sr <--Primer
Also it says matching cbc brass?
So I'm not to sure what it all means.
5grs. of Winchester 231 powder
5gr of 231 sounds wimpy but I don't have a use for a 40.If you know him like you say and he's meticulous about powder charging,bail in there.
Yep,just checked Lyman's 49,you're at the starting load.
On shooting jacketed after lead,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,he're my view:
First thing is pick the correct bullet to reduce leading and real well made and lubed one's really don't lead bad.Diameter,hardness,lube,and don't zing it too fast.
If you do have bad leading when you're done,don't clean it out with jacketed.It appears to work if you don't have a full wadcutter to plow it out.Now think pressure and where that load sits.
Picture shoveling dirt or snow.You're doing a chisel affect which is better than trying at 90 degrees as a wadcutter would scrape.Now pull the shovel back at you,it moves some and compacts what's directly under the pressure.A semi wadcutter has a slight radius but is gooder,a RN has an ogive angle that can move less and compress more.Not only did you pound lead into the bore,you also just threw melting temperature right back over it and driving it harder into the steel's pores if the barrel is still hot from shooting.
Pressure also can raise.Light leading isn't bad but heavy leading constitutes a minimal bore obstruction,and some powders just don't play well when pushed toward the top-reloads mainly.Glock had a problem here that was blamed on the poly bore.Yeah,they're a little more sensitive but a proper load is fine.Glock had a problem with the throat building lead,deminishing headspace and they would fire out of battery slightly.Poorly supported chambers and a slight out of battery hit and the guppy blew chow.Conventional rifling is more forgiving of fouling.
LTN? or could it be LRN...Lead Round Nose? Or perhap LFN, Lead flat nose?
Originally Posted by 92td
5.2 gr is Max for a 180gr cast FN, IAW Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, 4th edition. 5.0 is not a bunny flatulence load.
I've not used Wolf Primers. But SR, to me denotes Small Rifle. Probably not a problem. If you have any problems with light strikes, these may exacerbate it. Due to a thicker, tougher cup design designed to work with much higher pressures. Ideally sp (Small pistol) would be preferred. But one uses what they can get.
CBC is "Companhia Brasileira de Cartuchos" or in the US, MagTech. What little I've dealt with it, it seems fine. Matching most likely implies he went through the trouble to use all one brand of brass rather than a mix of whatever was on hand. I sort brass by brand as well. While not a requirement necessarily, it can only help with consistency.
This little writeup explains leading and how to prevent it. While a bit self serving, there is useful info to be had.
The company sells good bullets as well.
Missouri Bullet Company
Wow,my Lyman lists 4.3-5.8 for a 175 FP lead,the heaviest they list.Jacket is 5.0-5.6 in a 180.That puts his load about midway,yeah,no bunny but wimpy.
Years ago we always fired some copper jackets after shooting lead to clean out the barrel a bit. Had less lead that we had to clean by brushing. Then in the day of the wonder nine, we read of something called micro grooves that somebody was putting in barrels. Always blamed Glock, but without reason. So then we just shot copper in Glocks. After all they weren't American, and we were snobs. I still have a S&W from 1988 that I have fired just about anything I had through. Usually finishing say 200 lead nose with 25 or 50 FMJ's. It really did make cleaning less work. If the lead fouled anything, the way we knew is severe leading will affect accuracy. Who knows maybe my micro grooves are worn off leaving just a clean shiny regular barrel. Bottom line, go shoot have fun, clean your gun. These days you probably can't even find enough lead to foul a barrel. If you are going to shoot reloads, never go online and admit it unless your warranty is already up. And be willing to lie your *ss off to the maker if you hurt the gun. I shoot that Russian stuff that is dirtier than any of the bulk reloads I used to shoot. I mean that my buddies used to shoot. Wasn't me.
Thankya guys for all the information. I'm still kinda leery about shooting them, maybe eventually when I put enough FMJ rounds through it to feel comfortable that I won't need to send it in for any repairs or any bugs that might show up in a new gun.
This site is wonderful, full of information and nice, helpful members. Thanks guys.
I ran some reloads from a trusted acquittance and it was not good. He uses soft or garbage lead and it REALLY loaded up my 226's barrel. I recently ran some remanufactured 9mm lead ammo and while it was better I am going to keep it for this winter when I will appreciate the indoor range at my club.
Reloads are a real crap shoot so I would suggest being very careful and know who you are dealing with.
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