Customize my Sig.....

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    1. #1
      Member HGF Gold Member dosborn's Avatar
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      Customize my Sig.....

      I am thinking about doing a little work to my Sig P250.

      Can anybody tell me if it would be okay to sand on the slide. I would plan in using 1200+/- grit paper on a block. Check out the pics below to see what I am talking about.

      From this.......







      To this.......




      Any tips or ideas would be great. If I should not do this, please say so and why not to.

      Thanks in advance.

    2. #2
      Member YFZsandrider's Avatar
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      I'm pretty sure that the slide on the p250s are carbon steel and not stainless. If you exposed the bare material, it would rust without making sure it stays oiled very well. You could always send your slide away to have it refinished in NP3 or Ceraplate if you wanted to dress up the gun with some contrast.

    3. #3
      Member HGF Gold Member dosborn's Avatar
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      All of the P250's have a stainless steel slide. Some of them have the Nitron finish and some don't.

      EDIT - Called Sig to confirm stainless.

    4. #4
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      other than the slide, you can get all the parts from Sig...if you sand the slide, use a sanding block and tape off the areas you don't want to shine. I think it will look great. Good shooting, Gary

    5. #5
      Member YFZsandrider's Avatar
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      sanding block.... I say use a glass table or some other large piece of glass, and lay a piece of fine grit paper over it. You can slowly work the slide back and forth, making sure that the flat surface area of the slide is completely flat against the paper. This will make sure that your 'edges' between finished and exposed areas are as straight as possible

    6. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by YFZsandrider View Post
      sanding block.... I say use a glass table or some other large piece of glass, and lay a piece of fine grit paper over it. You can slowly work the slide back and forth, making sure that the flat surface area of the slide is completely flat against the paper. This will make sure that your 'edges' between finished and exposed areas are as straight as possible
      +1

      I had never really thought about doing something like that on a Sig. are you looking for the brushed look on the cleaned surface or a polish type finish? I really am not sure what would be better but I am curious as to what you are wanting to end up like. The sample pic looks like it's not a high polish but it's a little hard to tell exactly. Keep the edges clean while working the finish off and it should look really sharp any way you go.

    7. #7
      Member HGF Gold Member dosborn's Avatar
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      Thanks for the tips guys, especially the glass idea. We have some 3/8" glass here at work that we use to sharpen cutters/blades for our machines. I will start with the brushed look, I think it would be more maintenance free than polished. Now I need to find somone that makes the takedown lever, trigger and mag release in SS.

      If I have time in the next week I will give it a go and see what happens. About the worst that could happen is having to have it refinished. If I do end up having it refinished I will not go back to the Nitron finish, it sucks IMO. I think just a bead blasted look would be cool too.

    8. #8
      Member falchunt's Avatar
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      I am not going to claim to know how good of an idea this is or isn't but I would love to see it when you are done.

    9. #9
      Member YFZsandrider's Avatar
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      The reason I say glass, it is perfectly flat. Keep your sand paper layed tightly stretched over it, and when passing the slide across the surface, make sure it is laying perfectly flat on it, and you will assure that the "lines" you end up having between the finished and exposed areas are straight.

    10. #10
      Member SigZagger's Avatar
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      This guy may have the odds and ends parts you need to finish your job. He specializes in Sigs.

      http://www.customizedcreationz.com/s.../platings.html

    11. #11
      Member HGF Gold Member dosborn's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by SigZagger View Post
      This guy may have the odds and ends parts you need to finish your job. He specializes in Sigs.

      http://www.customizedcreationz.com/s.../platings.html
      Thank you!! I sent him an email and will update you all when I get a response.

      I thought about plating but I am concerned about fiting everything back together. For example, the takedown lever is tight as hell right now. If I plate it I don't think it would go back in. I could be wrong.

    12. #12
      Member HGF Gold Member dosborn's Avatar
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      I did it!!

      I dove in with both feet.........

      I may end up sending it off when I am done jacking with it. There has been no polishing done yet, just 1500 grit paper at this point. This took about 2 1/2 hours and the finish is tougher than I thought.

      Please don't be too harsh, this is my first attempt at this.


      Before......







      After.....
















      Here you can see where I left the top and face black.


    13. #13
      Member YFZsandrider's Avatar
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      Looks pretty good from here, although the pictures are a little out of focus.

      I didn't think you were going to do that upper section of the slide in the front, but I like it.

    14. #14
      Member HGF Gold Member dosborn's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by YFZsandrider View Post
      Looks pretty good from here, although the pictures are a little out of focus.

      I didn't think you were going to do that upper section of the slide in the front, but I like it.

      Cheap Poloroid camera and poor lighting.

      I didn't think I was going to do the upper section either. I should have taken a picture before I did the top half but it does look better this way IMO. I left the very top black but may end up having the top, front and back beadblasted.

      I think I will call this my Sig P250 Elite.

    15. #15
      Junior Member The Reaper's Avatar
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      not bad.....i like the two tone silver/black pistols more than the all black.

    16. #16
      Member austin88's Avatar
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      wow looks good so far it kinda makes it look like a equinox in a way i like it alot cant wait to see the final version of it

    17. #17
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      Looks pretty cool. If you decide you don't like it there's always Duracoat. Cheaper than sending it off and you have a good bit of options.

      It looks pretty nice. It's hard to tell for the pics but it does not appear to have any waves or anything.

    18. #18
      Member HGF Gold Member dosborn's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by YFZsandrider View Post
      The reason I say glass, it is perfectly flat. Keep your sand paper layed tightly stretched over it, and when passing the slide across the surface, make sure it is laying perfectly flat on it, and you will assure that the "lines" you end up having between the finished and exposed areas are straight.
      This worked perfect. Used 3/8" thick glass.

      What do you guys know about hard chrome finishes??

      http://www.originalmetaloy.com/gallery.html The prices seem high.....

    19. #19
      Member falchunt's Avatar
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      Looks very good so far dosborn, keep em coming as you go.

    20. #20
      Member HGF Gold Member dosborn's Avatar
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      Okay, I have decided to send the slide to CCR for Cera Plate. I am also going to send the trigger and takedown lever with it.

      I will update with pics when it's back.

      It was worth the experience I gained and now feel more confident working on guns. This will not be the last time I try to customize, it was fun.
      Last edited by dosborn; 01-18-2010 at 06:52 PM.

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