Roll pins require the use of a specially-shaped punch, exactly so that what you've experienced won't happen.
The nose of the special punch is shaped in such a way that it will not enter the center of the roll pin, so it will not get stuck.
It is possible to shatter the broken-off pieces of the stuck punch(es), and then to pick them out. It's not an easy, simple job, though.
Your best bet is to take your mess to a qualified gunsmith, and let him figure a solution out. Whatever you pay him, it'll be worth it.
A long time ago, I broke a hardened screw off in a hole, in a soft-steel lockplate.
The jeweler whose shop was across the street from my own place had gotten his start as a machinist on board a WW2 submarine. I consulted him, and he suggested that I place the lockplate into a glass beaker containing a solution of styptic pencil (aluminum hydroxide, I believe) in water, and then to gently boil the stuff.
In about an hour, the hardened piece of screw almost fell out, all on its own. The threaded hole was almost unchanged, and was still completely functional.
He explained: The styptic material attacks hardened steel more avidly than it attacks soft steel, so the screw lost diameter faster than the lockplate lost its dimensions. He told me all about the chemistry involved, but I no longer remember it.
This technique, however, should be seen as a last resort. The penalties for a little bit of miscalculation would be disastrous. But it would work on your broken-off punch tips.
I don't know anything about the anatomy of your P230. Sorry.