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  1. #26
    aggiedave05 is offline Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    12
    In all seriousness...I am a novice when it comes to guns but I am so pissed about this Ruger I'd like to just put it in a box and never open it again.

    What are you supposed to do when you can't get a gun apart? I just can't imagine who put this together with super human strength to make it so tight you can't get anything apart. The more I read online the more I keep seeing descriptions of 30 minutes to strip down a gun even after they've done it a number of times. That's insane, this is just a .22 plinking pistol, not some antique from a museum.

    Anyone want to buy a Mark III w/ 5.5" bull barrel in 3 pieces (bolt, spring housing, and barrel/receiver). I paid 300 but if you come by you may find it in my trash for free.

    I've bought a handful of guns, but no other problems like this. It's not like my autoloader shotgun isn't cycling appropriately and I bring it into a gunsmith. What am I supposed to tell the guy "oh yeah see I bought this gun and can't get it apart"

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  3. #27
    Shipwreck's Avatar
    Shipwreck is offline HGF Forum Moderator
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Beretta City, Texas
    Posts
    10,740
    I've seen on other forums people say U need a rubber mallet to get the thing apart - seriously.

    Supposedly U knock the upper off of the grip section.

  4. #28
    Rich447 is offline Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    10
    What he likely did was swing the mainspring back incorrectly, and the hammer strut is not in the right place and jammed. So now it is basically impossible to take back apart.

    I had to pay a smith to tear mine down again.

    So upon assembly one has to be careful that the hammer strug falls in place correctly when closing the mainspring bolt, and make sure that strut is hanging perfectly center which requires the gun basically be standing on end.

    You will notice a little indentation on the mainspring latch, and if the strut does not go in there you are screwed (as I also found out).

    A good indicator that you are doing it correctly is that when trying to close the mainspring latch you can almost get it entirely in effortlessly until the final locking stage. If you cannot get that far without any difficulty something is wrong, and you have to start over.

  5. #29
    greener is offline Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    8
    The best set of instructions for field stripping a MKIII or MKII is on Bullseye's site
    http://www.guntalk-online.com/fsprocedures.htm

    If the pistol "locks up" after reassembly it probably means that it was assembled with the hammer in the cocked position. Insert mag (MKIII); point muzzle down; pull trigger and tap barrel on a board while holding trigger back. This should release the sear.

    The first time I field stripped my first Ruger (MKIII Hunter) I had visions of a box of parts going to a gunsmith. The technical language was so bad, the dog left the room. I reread the instructions and repeated the field strip/reassembly a couple of times. Since then I've had both my MKIII's fully apart several times. Each has a target sear and trigger upgrade and one also has a target hammer (volquartzen). I'm the original ten-thumbed klutz. If I can do it, just about anyone can.

  6. #30
    greener is offline Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by Rich447 View Post
    What he likely did was swing the mainspring back incorrectly, and the hammer strut is not in the right place and jammed. So now it is basically impossible to take back apart.

    I had to pay a smith to tear mine down again.

    So upon assembly one has to be careful that the hammer strug falls in place correctly when closing the mainspring bolt, and make sure that strut is hanging perfectly center which requires the gun basically be standing on end.

    You will notice a little indentation on the mainspring latch, and if the strut does not go in there you are screwed (as I also found out).

    A good indicator that you are doing it correctly is that when trying to close the mainspring latch you can almost get it entirely in effortlessly until the final locking stage. If you cannot get that far without any difficulty something is wrong, and you have to start over.
    You avoid this by making sure the hammer is fully forward. I push it with whatever is handy. Insert the mainspring, close it about 3/4 way, point the muzzle vertical and close the main spring. You should feel a slight springiness as you close the mainspring into the grip, then close the lock. If it is hard or you feel no spring, stop, the hammer strut is not in the groove.

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