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  1. #1
    Junior Member Wolvee's Avatar
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    Gunsmiths guide for the MkIII?

    123
    Does anyone have any sort of Gunsmiths guide for the MkIII

    I know there was some dude named IOWEGAN from the Ruger boards that made one a while ago, does anyone have one or similar in a Doc or PDF?

    Does anyone even have one out for the SR9 yet?


    Thanks
    Mike

  2. #2
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    Bullseye's Guntalk-Online site has lots of step by step maintenance and gunsmithing stuff for the Mark I/II/III here:
    Gun Talk Online

    Also the S&W Model 41

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by stahlmangc View Post
    Bullseye's Guntalk-Online site has lots of step by step maintenance and gunsmithing stuff for the Mark I/II/III here:
    Gun Talk Online

    Also the S&W Model 41
    Thanks for the link. I wish I had found it yesterday. I spent a total of 4 hours to reassemble my MKIII Hunter. I'm not a novice having make 4 black powder pistols from scratch and have had over 50 handguns during the past 60 years, but I've never been told to use a hammer to disassemble/reassemble a handgun. Shooting wise it's the best .22 I've ever owned, cleaning wise I'd never buy another. In the future it will get cleaned with a boresnake and a compressor period. Even without stripping I guess the gun will outlive me.
    Mitch

  4. #4
    Member Overkill0084's Avatar
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    It's a bit of a pain, but it's not THAT bad. Do it like 4 or 5 times back to back. Then you will have it comitted to memory. You will get used to it pretty quickly.

  5. #5
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    A plastic mallet is nice to pull the top half off the bottom receiver, but I seldom take it off. Just pulling the mainspring housing assembly is necessary to remove the bolt to clean from the breach. Putting things back together does require a bit of a learning curve, but once you get it down, it is easy from them on.

  6. #6
    Junior Member John2393's Avatar
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    Oh man. I have a MK II and i got over-confident in my abilities and decided to "GI" it. Thats what i call it when i completely gut my guns to the frame and inspect all my springs, and clean every little part.

    The guy i bought it from decided that WD40 would help the bolt slide easier. Soooo i got the gun relatively cheap but ALL the guts were coated with sticky powder ridden glop.

    So taking it down wasnt that bad (usually most guns arent) but i found out why it had never been thoroughly cleaned! Even the gunshop guys couldnt help me. I ended up googling "MK II schematics" which brought up an exploded view in the "images" option.

    I had to do it that way. I just studied the exploded view and went backwards. In the process i still wound up losing the safety selector button spring, which is the size of a mosquitos fingernail. Lol. Never had a problem assembling the weapon since! In fact i print out exploded views of all my guns now as my other gun is a Redhawk, again, i figured "oh, a revolver...easy!" WRONG!! double locking cylinder, etc... it aint no S&W model 10...

  7. #7
    Senior Member TedDeBearFrmHell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John2393 View Post
    Oh man. I have a MK II and i got over-confident in my abilities and decided to "GI" it. Thats what i call it when i completely gut my guns to the frame and inspect all my springs, and clean every little part.

    The guy i bought it from decided that WD40 would help the bolt slide easier. Soooo i got the gun relatively cheap but ALL the guts were coated with sticky powder ridden glop.

    So taking it down wasnt that bad (usually most guns arent) but i found out why it had never been thoroughly cleaned! Even the gunshop guys couldnt help me. I ended up googling "MK II schematics" which brought up an exploded view in the "images" option.

    I had to do it that way. I just studied the exploded view and went backwards. In the process i still wound up losing the safety selector button spring, which is the size of a mosquitos fingernail. Lol. Never had a problem assembling the weapon since! In fact i print out exploded views of all my guns now as my other gun is a Redhawk, again, i figured "oh, a revolver...easy!" WRONG!! double locking cylinder, etc... it aint no S&W model 10...
    2 words "armorers guide"

  8. #8
    Junior Member John2393's Avatar
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    Armorers guide? Sounds good to me. Where would i get one?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by John2393 View Post
    Armorers guide? Sounds good to me. Where would i get one?
    Better late than never:

    https://www.volquartsen.com/products...ruger-firearms

  10. #10
    Junior Member HGF Gold Member
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    If anyone here has issues with ANY Ruger Mark I, II, III or 22/45, please contact info@saronagunworks.com for a cost free discussion on how these pistols can be fixed and modified..........properly. I have been working on these pistols since 1971 and can provide parts, both factory, custom and aftermarket to suit your needs at affordable prices. Contact info@saronagunworks.com

  11. #11
    Member Greybeard's Avatar
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    It will loosen up to the point that you won't need a hammer for dis-assembly/re-assembly. When it gets to that point, then it is remembering when to insert/eject the magazine and how to re-install the main spring housing so that it properly engages the hammer strut, keep the plastic mallet handy just in case.

  12. #12
    Junior Member HGF Gold Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greybeard View Post
    It will loosen up to the point that you won't need a hammer for dis-assembly/re-assembly. When it gets to that point, then it is remembering when to insert/eject the magazine and how to re-install the main spring housing so that it properly engages the hammer strut, keep the plastic mallet handy just in case.
    The "magazine in/magazine out" routine can be a real PAIN when it comes to dis and re assembly. The solution is simple, ditch the magazine disco parts and install an S.G.W. LLC hammer bushing and magazines will then click into place more positively and eject in a blur once you press the magazine release.



    Another thing to consider, is the use of an anti-seize lubricant, applied to the under-side ot the tab in the grip frame and then a dollop in the receptacle in the receiver for that tab. That's not done at the Ruger factory during assembly operations, so the fit is metal on metal, and therefore quite tight. Consider using the anti-seize on those mating parts and the next disassembly of the upper from the grip frame will be much easier. I use this stuff because it has copper dust in it and that makes for less galling of metal on metal parts without a lubricant being used.


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