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I've found that the feed ramp on the frame does NOT meet the feed ramp on the barrel "flush". There is a slight "lip" between the two, with the barrel ramp being slightly higher. This has caused a few rounds to hang-up, just before entering the chamber. If anyone has had this problem, did you correct it yourself? (And exactly HOW did you do it ????)
Thank you for any input you can give me.
Have a great day... T
NIB= warranty and you should contact their customer service.....JJ
Is there a lip, or is there a gap?
In some semi-auto designs, there sometimes is a small horizontal lip between the top edge of the frame's part of the feed ramp and the bottom edge of the barrel's part. (It's horizontal in relation to "aligned with the bore axis.")
As long as there's no vertical gap between the parts, that lip is probably OK. (A vertical gap, a bad thing, would be a vertical opening in the feed ramp, between the frame and the barrel, into which you could easily slip a feeler-gauge or a length of wire.)
Frequently, rounds "hang up" by butting a bullet against the inside of the gun's barrel hood. The hood is supposed to guide the cartridge into the pistol's chamber, but sometimes HP bullets are not round-nosed enough to slide forward against the inside surface of the hood.
If even round-nose bullets hang up on the barrel hood, the most likely problem is that the magazine's feed lips are a little off, and are aiming the cartridge at the barrel hood at too steep an angle. You check this by trying another magazine, preferably one that works properly in someone else's P230SL.
If even a known-good magazine is involved in these hang-ups, then the pistol needs a gunsmith's attention, and should be returned under warranty.
You found a NIB 230,where?These have been gone for a few years since the update to the 232,was that a typo?The early 232s had feeding issues but it was mainly due to a redesigned breechface.If the barrel is overhanging the frame's ramp send it back for warranty,they'll fix it.1911s are as Steve describes with the barrel 1/32" foward of the frame,and it's necessary for cartrige rollover to chamber.I parted with my 230s years ago so I don't have one to see if it's supposed to be matched or staggered.
On a 1911 overhang pops up sometimes rebarreling,and can be relieved and the ramp reshaped because it's more about the gap and breakover point into the chamber than the angle of the ramp,but on these I don't know if that's the case or the barrel was just seated too far in the collar and nobody caught it.Call them up,they'll fix you up.
Hello Steve 1911A1,
There is NO gap, at all. The two are completely butt together. The barrel portion of the ramp is just slightly higher than the frame portion of said ramp, which I believe, is the cause of the problem. I read a response on another forum, where he stated that he removed the barrel and polished it down, so the two met flush and that solved his problem. I am aware, that if I do that, it will void my warranty, but I'm willing to do it, if it will fix the problem.
Thank you for your feedback... T
Hello to Rex,
No, it's not a typo... I've been looking for a "GERMAN MADE Sig. P230SL" for more than 2 years. It has ALL the German markings and the letter code "HJ", which, after looking the code up, tells me it was made in West Germany, year 1987. (At least it was Proofed in that year.) All three parts of the gun are the same serial number, with matching proof marks. I just read, on another forum, that sig. does NOT think this "lip", or raised portion of the barrel ramp, needs fixing??? I'm just trying to figure out which way I'm going to go. I'm not really that concerned with the warranty issue. I'm thinking about taking it to a GOOD Gunsmith and have him polish off that "lip".
Thank you for your input... T
Great find man!I'm not a 380 fan but they are a real nice little piece.
As I recall,the barrel is pressed into the frame,so whoever said that had the equipment to remove and install it without ruining the press fit.I think it was cross pinned also but it needs to be a press fit for stability.A good smith,I mean a real good pistolsmith,should be able to get down in there with his Foredom (expensive Dremel) with a good bit to move that edge back and redress it.Search around for somebody familiar with Sigs or this type of job,it's worth paying shipping if need be so some mediocre skilled guy doesn't slip and screws it up.
Let us know how it goes.
Hello rex,
I read on another forum, that a gentleman had the exact problem I'm having... He solved his problem, by removing the barrel with pin punches and a soft headed hammer. (many light taps???) Then he used some kind of rubbing compound to "eliminate" the said "lip". Put everything back together, tried it and "wala"... Worked fine !!! I can only hope to get the (being VERY careful) same results? My question to you and everyone else on this thread: What kind of "compound" should I use for this job? One that would remove a "slight" lip and not be too abrasive in the process? Thanks to everyone, for their input to this problem... T