Anyone know how repair or get a small scratch off the slide?
I was so worried about the idiot scratch below the slide stop that i ended up scratching the slide instead..
The slide stop plunger spring is very tight, i need to use a small screwdriver to compress so i can get the slide stop back in place.
Called Kimber and they said its about $80 to refinish the slide..
Its killing me, this is on a brand new Eclipse..
How bad of a scratch?
Originally Posted by Rocker
Special finishes require special care, one reason why I'm fond of regular old stainless.
Sorry, but you're probably kind of screwed. On a side note, if this is a carry gun, at least you don't have to worry about scratching it any more.
Yeah i agree, its like a new car, once you get your first scratch you dont have to worry about it anymore.. LOL.. its still painful to look at sometimes..
I think ill wait for scratch #2 or #3 and then send it back and have it redone..
Yes it is for carry but i have a couple others I carry also, wanted to just look at this one and admire it LOL..
Now im gonna go shoot the shit out of it ...
which is never a bad thing..
Ouch!! I feel your pain!True that about the first scratch! But remember carry guns are going to get scratches no matter how careful you are! Beleive me I know! "Shit Happens!" Ditto your comment above now shoot the shit out of it!!
Its just like with a truck, the first scratch sucks, then you get used to it, then you like them.
I recently got my first 1911. A Springfield Loaded Longslide. It too had a tight plunger and I wound up scratching the slide and the frame before I even had a chance to shoot the gun. Sent it back to Springfiled. They gave me a new frame, polished the slide, sent it back to me Fed Ex overnight and did not charge me a penny. I was astounded.
OUCH!! I know how you feel
Now THAT is service.
Originally Posted by Cary Keshen
Don't feel Bad. I know a guy who did it to the receiver of an expensive over and under......those are rarely ever carry guns where you can hide the scratch, and he lost a fortune in resale value. I learned a long time ago the hard way that hardwood dowels sharpened to different configurations can be extremely patriotic in such situations. Sorry about your loss but don't let it ruin your enjoyment of the gun.....heck we've all done something like that. I put my 1911 under the driver's seat of my car once, not realizing it was directly over the exhaust pipe, which raised the condensation in the carpet and rusted my 1911. I said a few John Brownings and Jeff Coopers and forgot about it.
Use at your own risk!
I just bought an Eclipse used. There were a couple of pretty major scratches. On another forum, a member suggested using a scotch brite pad. I used a green scotchbrite pad that I bought Wally world. Start out by taking off your grips and experimenting on the stainless underneath. Then when you feel confident start at the rear of the scratch and work in the direction of the grain. Initially the SS will be a little brighter than the rest of the gun. To even things out I found it best to work the entire length of the gun, just on the flats, not on the paint. Make sure to keep all strokes with the pad straight, and in the direction of the grain ( or brush marks currently on the slide)
You need to be careful when you are near the edges of the black paint so you don't take it off.
I think you'll find with a little experimentation under the grips, you'll figure out what you like. I couldn't believe how easy it was and how good it worked. I had a hell of an idiot scratch and this got it out completely and you can't tell where it was.
Thanks guys, i appreciate all the support, as well as how to maybe take the scratch out.. I'll try that.
If it's a black finish, magic marker will make a bad scratch hardly noticeable. You just have to re-do it occasionally.
Originally Posted by Rocker
If you're going to carry it, you might as well get used to some scratches.
I didn't have much to do yesterday, so I detail stripped my stainless steel loaded model. While I had it apart, I got some 400, 800 and 1000 grit sandpaper. I worked the slide up to 1000 grit and the frame to 800. I then went over the whole pistol with some Mother's Mag and Wheel polish. The sandpaper got all of the scratches off (including a pretty bad idiot mark I put on a while back) and the mag polish made it shine. I think if I went over it with 1500 or 2000 grit paper, I could have gotten a mirror finish, but 1000 was good enough for me. It didn't take long to do, and the results were worth it. I wish I had done it sooner!
TO: shiloh214 (and all who took the time to respond)
I just wanted to let you know I finally got around to the scratches on my 3" Kimber and used the "Green Scotch Brite pads" like you said... and the scratch is pretty much gone.. It looks amazing.. if you didnt know it was there you would not see it.
It came so good i used it on my very used 5" Target Eclipse that had quite a few light scratches on it from the previous owner, I did the entire gun.. it also looks amazing now.. Both Kimbers look great...
I wanted everyone to know I appreciate all the info.. thank you very much.
Pepsident Toothpaste will take out small scratches on a stainless weapon.Really most all of those old white pasts work as a mild abrasive. As stated earlier - Always rest it on an area that wont show first to test it.
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