Contact Kel-Tec and send it back again until they get it right.
I have a PF9 that will not eject the empty casing. The extractor clip will not pull the empty completely out of the chamber. I have tried several different types of bullets and had several different people shoot the gun, so I know it is not just me having trouble with it. Had it sent back to Kel-Tec to be fixed and they said that they had some problems and they "fixed" it. It still does not work. Does anybody have any ideas, or do I have the nicest paper weight in NC?
Contact Kel-Tec and send it back again until they get it right.
After you got it back from Kel-Tec the first time, did you field-strip it, or otherwise take its slide off?
I bet that you have lost the ejector.
No, it was not field stripped. The problem is not the ejector pin. It is the extractor clip, I think. It will not pull the empty out of the chamber completely.
If the extractor grips the empty well enough to pull it only part-way out of the chamber, it's working correctly and is not the problem.
There are only four possible causes for the problem you seem to be describing:
• You are firing weak rounds that do not give the pistol's mechanism enough power to operate correctly. Are you firing 9mm Parabellum, or are you firing 9mm Kurtz (9mm Short, or .380 ACP)? Look on the box of cartridges, and the bases of the cartridges themselves, and see. The PF9 requires 9mm Parabellum (9x19mm) ammunition.
• The pistol is equipped with a recoil spring that is too strong, so it does not go through its entire cycle correctly. Since it's been to the factory, this is unlikely.
• The pistol's ejector is missing. This part is not a mere "pin," but rather a projecting piece of metal that hits the base of a fired cartridge as the slide moves back in recoil. This, too, is unlikely, unless someone has taken the gun apart and has lost it.
• The people test-firing the pistol are not holding the pistol firmly enough to allow it to operate properly. This is called "limp wristing," and it is a typical beginner's fault. Find a very experienced pistol shooter, and see if he or she has the same problem that you are experiencing.
First, thanks for trying to help me with this problem.
-I have tried using 9mm Luger from Winchester, Federal, CCI and Remington.
-The pistol's ejector is still there. The word "pin" was more of a descriptive term and not an actual part term.
-As for limp wristing, I do not think this is the problem. We (the ones shooting the KEL-TEC) all shoot pistols and revolvers. I have had pistol instructors to SWAT team members shoot it with the same problems. It will still do it when you are making a conscious effort to not "limp wrist" it. I am not saying this could not be some of the problem, but it does not seem likely given the range of the people shooting it.
I'm out of ideas.
As a new member I want to restate my last post. Thanks for trying to help with my problem. This is why I came to this forum. The more I read the more I enjoy and learn.
Other than making sure the extractor bolt is tight and no burrs on the extractor where it grabs rim of cartridge, only other thing I can think of is to polish chamber with fine sandpaper rolled around a pencil?
oh, NO! The finest grit of emery cloth is still much too coarse for use on the chamber walls! Instead, use the Dremel, grey clay looking polishing point in the handheld grinder, check out the sub $20 one from Harbor Freight tools. Be sure to roll the polisishing point around the circumference of the chamber, to avoid removing too much metal in any one place.
the extractor does not need to pull the fired casing all the way out of the chamber, it only needs to start it out and residual gas pressure will (normally) do the rest. That is why the Beretta pocket autos don't need extractors. However, if the extractor doesn't hold the casing in place until the ejector can hit the case head a good lick, the fired round is unlikely to be kicked out of the ejection port. I can't tell from your description if this is what is going on. your description sounds like weak powered ammo, but if you are using a variety of ammo, that is not the case. use a good light, preferably a gunsmith's bore light, to carefully look at the chamber walls. If a bad enough gouge or rough spot exists, the case walls will expand enough into the roughness that it will impede the extractor's pulling the rd out of the chamber in a timely fashion.
Having done quite a few ramp-and-chamber polishing jobs in my time, I have to observe that no first-timer should ever attempt the job with a Dremel or other rotary tool, regardless of the fineness of the abrasive to be used.
This is (you should pardon the expression) a hand-job.
Although I am not led by the OP's question to the conclusion that the fault is a rough chamber, a ramp-and-chamber polish couldn't hurt. (That is, unless a Dremel tool is involved.)
(If anybody would like detailed polish-job instructions, just PM me.)
Well, I should have clarified that the polishing point needs to be "trued" on a truing brick, prior to this sort of job, and that only at most 2 passes around the circumference can be recommended. If that doesn't do the trick, something else is wrong. True, idiots should not be using power tools on guns, but neither should too coarse an abrasive ever touch a chamber wall.
My PF9 is still not working. Took it apart and cleaned it good again! When i finished cleaning and oiling put it back together and shot it. on the fourth shot the empty stuck in the chamber again. I then took it apart with the empty still in the chamber. the casing was in there fairly tight. When i took it out the casing was not round. It was .003" (checked with a dial caliper) out of round. Is this normal? I have never checked casings before. Could the barrel be defective? I dont know what to do now other than send it back to KT with the empty casings from it. Does any one have any ideas or know about the out of round?
Indeed, that's what your description seems to indicate.
Call KT and tell them what you've found out, including your measurements. Don't settle for a customer-service employee, but rather hold out for an engineer or machinist.
Let them tell you what to do, but I suggest that you ask firmly for a new barrel with a properly round chamber. KT should pay for pick-up and delivery, too.
Thanks Steve, it is going back to Kel Tec, again.
I'm having the same type of problems with mine D: The first time I shot mine it jammed like no tomorrow (but that was because the dealer sold us the wrong weight bullet D:<) The second time I shot it I bought Blazer 115 and 124 weight bullets and it didn't jam at all, so I thought the problems was only the weight of the bullet. But then I used a friends ammo 115 weight Winchester and It jammed worse than the first time I shot it. I'm thinking that it may be the bullet casings cause when it jammed both times (with two different brand ammo) it was Brass casings, I'm going to test it out tomorrow if the Steel casing bullets I recently bought jam it. But it didn't jam with the Blazer Aluminum casings. I'm grasping at straws right now, so I'm not sure if the different casings types has anything to do with it, but Bahhumbug.
My PF-9 came back from KT last week. This was the second time it was there. Brought it home and shot 50 rounds thru it ( 7 mags ). It never jammed once. This is the first time that has ever been said about it. Before, you could not shoot 7 rounds before it would jam. KT did some work on it this time. They replaced the barrel, extractor and screw, ejector, mag release, mag plunger and polished everything. After 50 rounds can't say it is fixed but have never been able to empty one mag in it before, so I am happy for now. The only problem I have is KT did not want to pay for shipping on one of their defects because it was the second time it went back to them. My dealer did not want to either (It was not his problem it was KT's) So he put it in another box going to them and let them pay for both. Thanks to them. IR you may have the same problem i had, I don't know. If you do not get it shooting send it back until they fix it. If you can't depend on it you may as well be carrying a rock in your pocket. As for the different type of casings mine would jam with them all. I don't know if you would call it a jam problem the casing would not come out of the chamber. I think the chamber was out of round. Hope this fixes my problem, and I hope you get yours fixed. Still do not carry the gun. It will take a lot to get me to turn loose of my Sig 228. Best of luck to you IR.
Check the extractor screw make sure it's in all the way in. You may want to take the screw out clean extrator and replace screw with blue lock tight.I had one which I thought screw was all the way in but it wasn't it has to fit right with firing pin inside once that's done put blue lock tight on screw and replace.
My first PF-9 has been flawless from day one. I just bought one from a buddy because he was having the same problem: Failure to eject on the fourth round almost every time with dfferent ammos. I bought it cheap beacuae I knew worst case, I'd send it back to KT. I field stripped and inspected/cleaned and tested with the same results. I pulled it again, tested the empties in the chamber and one felt a little tight. I pulled the exctractor spring and screw and noticed a little gunk under the extractor claw, so I've cleaned that, re-assembled and I'm going to polish the chamber. The ramp is polished well, but i do notice the geometry is slightly different than my old one. I'll test fire again and if no luck, I'll try to mic the cases.
With regards to dremel polishing... my suggestion is to use a buffing pad with a little polishing rouge. It'd be damn hard to take off too much material that way. Mine is actually a black and decker, but is variable speed, and they make a buffing wheel that is a little plug shaped just like a bullet that is almost a perfect fit in a chamber. go slowly and use the rouge sparingly and your pretty safe with regards to removing to much material.