My first "custom" job: G26/G27 Pearce grip extensions fitted to my P2000SK
Although it's been a while since I've done this (3/14/08) I noticed the HK thread has been kinda stagnant so I thought I would provide my first attempt at customizing one of my handguns, H&K's P2000SK. In short, it's a great gun, but as with many subcompacts, pinky dangling is a source of discomfort for many. I decided I'd had enough of that crap and went looking for a solution. I did find a guy on HKPRO forums who had mentioned he tinkered with a G26 Pearce grip extension and a dremel and got it to fit. He had also mentioned the process was relatively easy. He was right.
His post however, was lacking detailed information, or any information really, on what to do. Considering these grip extensions were $7 a piece, I figured I'd buy a handful just in case I ran into a few snags. Turns out my first two runs were par for the course so I have a couple spare grip extensions!
Anyhow, there are really only three things you need to do. I've provided some uncompressed images which should better explain what I'm talking about. You know what they say about a picture being worth 1000 words and all. Anyhow, on with the show.
1) Create a new magazine base hole in front of the the default Glock 1/8 in. hole. The Glock hole is roughly 1/8 in diameter whereas the H&K hole is roughly 1/4 in. diameter. Note the H&K hole is centered in the Pearce grip text, which is now mostly removed because the hole is there:
2) Shave a dip, top-front of the extension, to accomodate for the 1/16 in. lip on the P2000SK's magazine well. To understand how the magazine well's lip protrudes (and consequently what the end-result of a modded pearce-grip should look like), see:
This is probably the trickiest part of this entire project. You do not want your newly created dip to be too wide because if it's too wide the extension will want to slide backward. Techncially the magazine base stop which will fit in your newly-drilled hole should prevent this, but there's no reason to put any unnecessary strain on the internals of the mag because this could weaken the spring, not to mention I personally wouldn't trust a little spring-enforced button to be the only thing holding a piece of plastic into place on a firearm.
The trick here is to make sure the bends at the top front corners of the extension are kept intact. In short, both the extension and the factory mag baseplate should only have the option of being removed by sliding off the magazine IN A FORWARD MOTION. Again, be sure the bends at the top-front corners of the extension remain intact. This will preserve the process of removing the extension by depressing the magazine base button in conjunction with a FORWARD MOTION of the extension and/or magazine baseplate.
You will notice the extension bends wrap around the bottom ends of the front of the magazine shaft in the below photo:
3) shave a very small amount off the rear of the extension (possibly optional). The tolerance between the rear part extension and the rear part of the magazine well was much smaller than I like. To prevent friction in the area, I shaved off a VERY SMALL potion from the rear of the extension, as seen here:
I'm talking, 1/32 in. if that.
A couple notes:
-the overall fit of the extension to the magazine is a little tight, but I'd rather it be requiring a little force to get on and off than a lack of tension holding it in place.
-as you mold the extension to fit the weapon, make frequent spot-checks of your work by doing some dry fitting. It's no big deal if you haven't shaved off enough, but if you've shaved off too much then you have to start over with a new extension!!!!
-my source of this idea claimed it took him 20 minutes. I'm not sure if he was a master dremel wielder or what, but this took me close to an hour per extension (I do lots of dry fittings; call me paranoid). Still, this is a marginal amount of time and well worth the investment.
For a full list of photos I took:
I hope this helps! Feedback welcome....enjoy!
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