Job well done 2400.
I have seen several questions about starting reloading. Here is a basic equipment/component list.
Any of you experienced loaders feel free to add to it.
Any new guys feel free to ask questions.
4-5 good Reloading Books
Press, single stage or progressive
Dies, carbide or steel
Shell holder or plate
Powder measure, press mounted or separate
Primer seater, separate or on the press
Scale, analog or digital
Burring tool, hand or power
Lube pad or spray
Neck lube, brush or powder
Calipers, vernier or dial
Case length gauge
Lead, hard cast or soft
Jacketed, hollow point or soft point
Solid, copper or tungsten
Specialty, (i.e., partition, bronze point, silver tip, etc)
Pistol or rifle
Small or large
Standard, magnum or bench rest
Pistol or rifle
Standard (i.e. Remington, Winchester, Federal, etc)
Specialty (i.e. Nosler, Lapua, Norma)
By burning rate
Pistol, rifle or shotgun
Comes in 8oz, 1 lb, 2 lb, 4 lb and 8 lb
Job well done 2400.
What website do you find the best for reloading supplies? I use midway usa for most of my purchases but never any reloading stuff.
don't forget the bullet puller
I buy a lot of reloading supplies from Graf & Sons. Their listed prices includes shipping. Good folks.
what do peaple think of starting out with the lee loader system?
Lee single stage stuff will get you started, but I moved to RCBS pretty quick. If I had it to do over, I would just go straight to RCBS. I do still use Lee carbide dies, but I was never impressed with their powder measures.
how much does it cost roughly to get started with single stage press for one or two callibers, not including components?
Any recommendations for books to buy for someone just starting out...JJ
Pretty much all reloading manuals that you would need for reloading data will have a section in the front with good detailed step by step instructions on how to reload.Good rule of thumb is to get a reloading manual for the make of bullets you are going to use.Speer bullets get a speer manual,hornady get a hornady manual.Depending on the type of accuracy you want to achive will depend on how much extra things you will need to reload.I dont get to crazy with handgun reloads except my 44 mag rounds.Now when it comes to rifle i shoot for total accuracy.Every case is cleaned and trimmed to the exact size,every primer pocket is beburred and cleaned.I will go through a new box of bullets and weight every one and find the lightest and file to end down to make them all the same weight.I will also weigh each powder charge to the exact weight,if i have to crack powder grains in half to get this i do.Every finished load is measured so they are all the same distance to the rifling,or touching it,depending on the gun. Am i way to picky,yes,but its alot more fun when you shoot longer distances and you can cut 3 shots or hit dimes consistently at 200 yards.
As mentioned,any reloading book will get ya started ,its up to you on how much you want to get out of the type of reloading you are doing.Good luck and be safe.
I understand for supreme accuracy you need (or should) do every step completely and thoroughly. But that takes time. If you shoot 20 rounds that's not too time intensive to reload.
I am getting into some PPC combat and for that need ~1200-1500 accurate 9mm rounds for the season. I also plan to shoot some IDPA and possible steel and those while not requiring as much accuracy (8" at 15yd vs 3" at 25 yds) it will require a lot more rounds.
So this brings me to two questions - first, bullets. If I get cast lead bullets from a non-big-name source they won't have reloading data as one finds in books...so where to start ?
Second is what equipment to get - I'm not rich so I"m trying to keep things in the affordable range, and I don't have a ton of free time so speed is a consideration as well but only if it's not gonna destroy accuracy. Most of what I've read says you can reload more accurate rounds than you can buy but I would think there are a lot of variables in that statement. I"m considering a lee loadmaster as it does everything and is progressive - the hope is for more consistency and of course speed compared to a one stage press or even the 1000.
I've seen powder scales from $25 (a lee) up to $95, balance beam and electronic scales...does it make a difference which I choose?
Not sure i can help much here beings i dont reload handgun for comp.As for the bullets,as long as you get a manual that has the weight and type of bullet,what i mean by that is ,flat base,boat tail bullet ,hollow point bullet or round nose, etc etc,it will get you in the ball park for a safe load.As for the accuracy its a guessing game.You may try 10 different loads before you find one that suits you and your gun.I had a Rem 700 BDL in a 7mm-08 that i worked on for one whole summer before i found a load i liked.Again,im real picky about accuracy.
As for a good progressive reloader i cant help much there.I suggest doing searches and reviews for what you are interested in.I myself am not a huge LEE fan.But if its all you can afford go that way and see how it does.Dillon ,MEC,RCBS all sell great loaders but they are expensive.All i will say is you will get what you pay for.Dillon will hold accuracy in loads better than a LEE.If you are looking into shooting that many rounds i for sure would get Carbide dies,they will last much longer.
for the scale part.unless you spend 3 or 4 hundred on a good set of electric scales go with a beam scale.The cheap little electric scales are a PITA to keep calibrated.I use a beam scale just cause im to cheap.Other things you might want to look into is a good case trimmer.Everytime you reload it stretches the cases.Good trimmer and deburing tool is a must.
I know this press here is alot of money but i would consider it.For 380 bucks you cant go wrong.Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders It comes with 1 set of dies and it will be hard to fiind a better reloader for the price.Im just affraid if you spend 150 or so on a LEE you will be disapointed and end up buying something else or get discouraged and stop reloading.
What ever you do ,good luck and have fun.
Just ordered a Hornaday 8th edition reloading manual since I bought the lock-n-load press....JJ
I have always wanted to reload ammo. Talked to my cousin about it since he use to do it. Pretty much said it was expensive to get the equipment and not really worth the time to reload your own ammo. Any thoughts?
The cost of your reloaded ammo will be less than store bought - but it all depends on what ammo you buy at the store (WWB 9mm from wallyworld is $20/100 or 20c a round, but I've seen ammo for $35/50 or 70c a round). I can do a round for 12c to 18c -depends mostly on the bullet and if I can recollect all my brass or not (local IDPA shoots don't let you pick up your brass so that adds the cost of the lost brass). If / when you buy bullets/primers/powder in large quantities it will be a bit cheaper per round as well.
I figure i'll be 'ahead' after reloading 4000 rounds. Most people say you don't save money - reloading allows you to shoot more for the same cost. It also allows you to make whatever ammo you want - my club's indoor range allows lead only and I can't find that in the stores. For 9mm I've looked for anthing loaded with a 147 bullet and only find some 124 and lots of 115's. You can also work up ammo that is more accurate than factory..i'm not anywhere close to that yet though.
It also adds another dimension to the hobby - you get to read more, know more, do more than just pull the trigger.
If you only load a box or two a season it will take a few seasons to break even. If you shoot often and load a lot it is defenately worth the time and saves you money. It also depends on what you want to get from loading. If you just want cheap, you can buy all the cheapest stuff and you will get cheap bullets, no doubt. If you want consistant and accurate you can get that too. There are many thoughts and a lot of equipment and components out there. But to say it is really not worth it,is only true if you do not shoot much or if you only shoot every other month 50 rounds or so. Then just buy a box at the LGS and shoot it. Or if you don't care about supporting your LGS go to Wal Mart they are cheap as you will find.
If you shoot often and want to know what you are shooting take up the hobby, it is fun!
What is the problem if any with reloading steel cases......JJ
For great cast bullets try: Missiouri Bullets
For FMJ or JHP try Delta precesion great prices at both place
I used to reload .357 back in the day (Late 1970's) with a single stage press and carbide dies. Used to shoot 100 rounds of factory every weekend until I had 2000 once fired factory cases and then started reloading a couple hundred at a time. The money I saved was significant and the ability to tailor make ammo was really cool.
Been out of it for many years - what's the best progressive loader now? If I shoot 400 rounds a month of .32 ACP, 9mm, .45, and .357 mag, how long would it take to pay for my equipment if I buy "The Best"? Ammo prices have risen multifold since I last reloaded and it seems that the equipment is much better and about the same price, if you can believe that. I'm thinking of converting my old knife shop in the basement into a reloading zone and I hope to have about $1000 to spend on reloading equipment and supplies.
At 400 rounds a month, can someone ball park me on how long it will take to break even?
Thanks in advance!
If you have nothing to start with a loadmaster kit is the least costly progressive, or perhaps a turret (manually advance things). $250ish
Then for each add't caliber you'll need dies, turret head and shell plate - $80ish. The loadmaster has a case feeder and there are two sizes - 9mm is one and 38/357 is the other. $25ish.
Plus of course cases, powder, primer, bullets.
How quickly you earn this back depends on two things - the cost of your ammo now and what you plan to shoot. Target loads (low power) w/ lead bullets you cast yourself and ti can be cheaper to shoot than buying 22LR ammo.
If you buy bullets - lead runs $75 per 1000 give or take (45 costs more than 9 as there is more to the bullet, weight wise). PLated cost a bit more and jacket more yet - perhaps $120/1000. Buying in bulk is cheaper of course. Lighter bullets are cheaper per bullet than big heavy ones.
Primers are about 3c each.
Powder varies - I shoot 38 with 2.7gr of bullseye - so a $22 lb of powder will make 2500 rounds. I use 4.3gr of 231 in 9mm and a lb will do 1600 rounds.
My 38s with lead wadcutters I can do 1000 for about $64 - so 50 costs $3.20. How does that compare to store bought ammo?
My 9mm I shoot jacketed rounds, they run about $6.75 for 50.
If you paying, what, $20 for 50 rounds you'll save $12 every 50... to earn back your $350ish investment in gear will require you to shoot 1500 rounds (30 boxes)
I shoot in a weekly league and go thruu 1800 or more 9mm and 800 or more 38s just in that league, every summer. IDPA takes a few, practice some, and I'm working my into cowboy action so more 38s will be needed.
What's handy is last fall I bought powder, primers, heads and have shot all this year without spending a dime and have no concern for teh ability to get ammo!