Printable View
Just like your car needs an oil change every 3,000 miles...is there some recommendations for Glocks? Such as changing recoil sping assembly, extractors, trigger springs, etc. every 1,000 to 5,000 round?
Maybe this is a Glock gunsmithing issue.
Thanks.
I forget who - but some famous shooter put 100k thru his glock supposedly w/o changing the recoil spring.
I'd probably change it every 10k or so.
I still have a 1995 special edition of Guns&Ammo magazine featuring all 9mm guns and such. Chuck Taylor had an article about combat handguns in 9mm and mentioned that his Glock 17 at that time had digested over 60,000 rounds of duty ammo and was still going strong. He made no mention of replacement of springs or any other parts. He said that for years he tried to hate the Glock, but it's simplicity, good combat accuracy, ease of maintenance,and phenomenal reliability won him over and it is now one of his favorite 9mm pistols along with the Browning Hi Power and his Colt 1911A1 in 9mm.
I keep some Glock parts in my range bag such as recoil spring and rod, magazine springs, slide lock lever, trigger spring and a few other springs but I have never really had to use any of them. After 15 K rds through my G 34, I replaced the recoil spring and rod and the slide lock lever because the spring on this assembly seemed a little weakened but I don't think these replacements were necessary in the sense that the gun wasn't going to run without them.
Like any good companion, I think, aside from keeping your Glock(s) clean, you simply need to praise them every other range trip and they will do just fine.
Just don't bad mouth them, especially in front of 1911s. They are very sensitive about that. I'm not kidding.
...Taylor's over 100,000 rounds now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hevchev50
OP: The only "routine" replacement I'm aware of is the recoil spring assembly. I was taught to replace the recoil spring assemblies about every 3,000 rounds as a preventative measure.
There is a controversial method to "test" the assembly: rack slide and pull trigger to the rear. Maintain (?sp) trigger pressure while holding the pistol vertically, with the muzzle pointed straight up. Gently pull the slide rearward about 1/2". Ride the slide slowly forward until the barrel hood begins to engage the barrel hood cutout in the slide then let go. If the barrel goes completely into battery on its own, your spring is exerting enough pressure and it's okay. If not, replace the recoil spring assembly.
-->Note, I've seen brand new recoil spring assemblies fail this test and I've seen "worn" assemblies pass the test on well-broken-in guns. So, it's not "perfect" but, in most cases holds true.
If you shoot frequently, I would replace the assembly annually. If not, every other year as a preventative measure.
Personally, I would seek out an GLOCK Armorer and have the pistol inspected at chosen intervals (it's completely up to you). It may cost around $30, but, if this is a defense pistol, it may save your life and it may rid you of liablity if/when you have an "incident". He/she will also make sure your pistol has all of the updated parts and check that the safties are functioning reliably.
Food for thought.:smt023
I would highly recommend sliping off the firing pin retaining block from rear of slide and pulling the firing pin Assy. out. And making sure the firing pin channel was real clean and dry don't used any oil in the channel.
This is not needed each time your Glock gets cleaned but every so often it's a good idea to do this item.:smt1099