I use Breakfree CLP - it cleans and oils.

I believe the military uses it for their M16s.

I've seen several tests. Its one of the top 2 or 3 in preventing rust in tests, and someone on the Sig Forum did a freezing test last week - it resisted freezing as well.

I've used it for years. U can buy the aeresol can at Wal-Mart, but I prefer the liquid in a bottle over the spray can.

Originally Posted by Shipwreck

I use Breakfree CLP - it cleans and oils.

I believe the military uses it for their M16s.

Ummm...not just the M16. From this article, it seems CLP is the official lubricant of the Military...

http://www.madogre.com/Interviews/breakfree.htm

"BREAK-FREE CLP was approved by the U.S. Military to the MIL-
L-63460 specification, and since that time has been continuously
used as the primary maintenance product by the U.S. Army, Navy
and U.S. Air Force for cleaning, lubricating and preserving all
weapons...tanks, mortars, rifles, machine guns, or guns on
battleships."

M-Pro7 cleaning solvent & Hoppes #9 lubrication. You can get it online or your local shop.

With 10 shotguns to clean tonite, I'll be starting with Hoppes #9.

CLP is not meant for freezing temperatures and it will cause your firearm to malfunction in such an environment. There's another formula that's used for that and it has a lower freezing point.

And yes, CLP is quite commonly used in the US Army. Not my favorite, but it's all they have. Makes cleaning more of a chore.

I use Hoppes #9 for cleaning, Breakfree for a light lube and rust preventative, and Wilson's Ultima-lube grease for high pressure points.

i use the el cheapo kit from wally world. almost outta all that though so i'll be in the market for some new stuff. planning to get hoppe's #9, just about everyone i know uses it so i figure it must be ok.

Breakfree CLP is one of the few things I can use indoors w/o getting light headed. I like it a lot.

Hoppes Elite (aka Mpro7), Hoppes Elite Oil, and Wilson Ultma Grease for Rail groves.

I use a rusty steel wire brush and animal lard, no rust yet

Actually Hoppes 9 or Outers Nitro bore cleaner and then either Gun butter or Snap-on air tool lube(cuz its light weight but stays put)

Hoppes #9 for the barrel, CLP for all other cleaning and some lube... Shooters Choice FP-10 for rails, etc.

For my AR15...

Hoppes #9 and CLP

Thanks for your help guys.....looks like I'll be ordering some breakfree CLP

I use Hoppes for cleaning and Mobil 1 Synthetic oil for lube. Works great and it's a lot cheaper than "real" gun oil.

Originally Posted by Todd

I use Hoppes for cleaning and Mobil 1 Synthetic oil for lube. Works great and it's a lot cheaper than "real" gun oil.

U better change that stuff every 3000 miles

Originally Posted by Shipwreck

U better change that stuff every 3000 miles

It's synthetic! I can easily get 5000 miles out of it!

I agree with everyone saying break-free. I like the aerosol can cause you see the product work immediately with out scrubbing. Drip bottle you'll use less though meaning you'll stretch it out more.
Dirt and residue drip away, it's the equivalent to putting hydrogen peroxide on a wound. (the bubbling)
It's just good and simply to use. Spray and walk away.
I've always accidentally over lubricated my Glock. They specifically say in the manual not to over oil certain spots for one reason or another. I haven't had any problems.
Also try gun grease(super expensive compared to oil) it's good for all but the coldest climates. I live in Florida no problem here.

Ok.........another question. Why do they say not to get solvent near the action?
Also, what parts on a Glock should not be touched? I think I read some part of the barrel?

Originally Posted by ian01

Ok.........another question. Why do they say not to get solvent near the action?
Also, what parts on a Glock should not be touched? I think I read some part of the barrel?

You're not supposed to push the solvents(and all the other stuff) from the bore, into the action as it dirties the action which makes for more work(this doesn't really go for Browning and similar action pistols where the barrel is easily disassembled during a field strip). If you want, you can clean every part of your Glock pistol. Just don't get oil into the firing pin channel. I hear that can cause problems.

Once again i use to drench the gun with break free.(not anymore of course) With the aerosol can you just can't help but put to much.

Just make shore to get the excess. Thats really important. The reason your not suppose to put that much oil is instead of a nice lubed surface there's to much oil and it'll give Resistance.
If you do get to much in anywhere, simple. Drip dry for a period and dry fire a couple of times. As for what not to touch noting as far as i know.

What Glock do you have?

Originally Posted by fattsgalore

What Glock do you have?

Glock 22

I was reading about gun cleaning on the Sig forum and here is one mans way of cleaning his Glocks

That is just plain rediculous. Everyone knows you need to remove the magazine before cleaning your gun

Originally Posted by Nastynewt

I was reading about gun cleaning on the Sig forum and here is one mans way of cleaning his Glocks

I have posted on this topic before but I am a believer in Prolix. It melts carbon better than anything, is not toxic or "oily", will not give you headaches and also lubricates. Check it out by entering Prolix on your browser. Put a wool bore mop saturated with Prolix through your barrel even after several hundred rounds and it is 99% clean. Get the other 1% by taking a rod or wooden dowel and sweep with a cleaning patch or two with just a little Prolix on it.