Your method seems good to me! For good defense ammo on the cheap you can order a box of 50 gold dots for around $20 online.

Frist of all why does the ammo have to be special. The 1911/.45 has been through 2 world wars and a couple of conflicks. The 230gr ball ammo has done just fine for our A/Forces. I reload it for about $5.50 for 50@ .11 cents a shot. Wal Mart is $21.00 @ 100 here. that's .21 cents a shot. I can buy another gun on what you are spending on ammo.

Baldy, For self defense, I wouldn't use FMJ in a 45. Just me, personally (the Military SHOULD be using JHP in those Berettas). For target purposes - its great...

But, I think any of the name brand JHP in 45 ACP is fine. Not sure what U are trying to do that costs $1 a round. EVen my PS90 ammo is only maybe 40 cents a round or so. Glazer and all of those other freaky rounds aren't worth it, IMHO...

Originally Posted by Shipwreck

Baldy, For self defense, I wouldn't use FMJ in a 45. Just me, personally (the Military SHOULD be using JHP in those Berettas). For target purposes - its great...

But, I think any of the name brand JHP in 45 ACP is fine. Not sure what U are trying to do that costs $1 a round. EVen my PS90 ammo is only maybe 40 cents a round or so. Glazer and all of those other freaky rounds aren't worth it, IMHO...

I don't know. I never thought of DPX, Hydra-Shok, Gold Dot, Ranger, etc. as "freaky," just "high-quality name brand JHP."

http://www.intlmidway.com/intl/eprod...eitemid=148833

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=241451

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=440561

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=695547

If you can buy DPX, H-S, GD, Ranger etc. for 40 cents a round, good for you! I pay about 20 cents a pop for WWB and AE hardball, but even if I could find the ammo I want to carry (which happens to be DPX) for 40 cents, 900 rounds for testing (100 rounds for each of my 9 .45's) would be $360. I know to some of you, that's chicken feed.

I just scored 200 rounds of 5.56 TAP (note, not .223) for $190 (i.e., almost a buck a round). I asked a friend of mine if he wanted to buy half. He said no; he wanted to buy a thousand "for practice," because he wants to practice with what he carries. Some people don't need to worry about ammo prices; this thread is not for them.

So, where do I get all this 40-cent DPX ammo?

Originally Posted by milquetoast

I don't know. I never thought of DPX, Hydra-Shok, Gold Dot, Ranger, etc. as "freaky," just "high-quality name brand JHP."

No, I know all the others... Never heard of DPX - and whatever it is, I don't think paying $1 for any 45ACP round is a good deal..

When I said "freaky," I was referring to Glaser and these other shell shot types of rounds...

You could always carry a revolver. Then all you need to worry about is the accuracy of a given load and POI. It's what I do.

I would think that a couple of boxes(100 rounds) would suffice for function testing.

I also think you're placing too much stock in the more expensive, "flashier" bullets. If you can't afford to shoot it, maybe you should go with something you can afford. These bullets aren't going to turn the whole round into a magnum. The bullet isn't going to fly faster nor hit harder just because of the bullet. They might just expand a little more than some of the less expensive ones given the right conditions. If you really think the caliber your carry piece is chambered in is inadequate, a slightly differently formed bullet isn't going to make all the difference. It just gives it a little more expansion under given conditions. But if you can afford the bullet type that you see as ideal, go for it. Otherwise get what you can afford.

When did overpriced bullets make all the difference in power? If a round has inadequate power because of limitations of the cartridge, a bullet that expands a little more just makes it an inadequtely-powered round that expands more. Maybe I should stop ranting and start listening to marketing hype.

Originally Posted by Revolver

You could always carry a revolver. Then all you need to worry about is the accuracy of a given load. It's what I do.

I would think that a couple of boxes(100 rounds) would suffice for function testing.

I also think you're placing too much stock in the more expensive, "flashier" bullets. If you can't afford to shoot it, maybe you should go with something you can afford. These bullets aren't going to turn the whole round into a magnum. The bullet isn't going to fly faster nor hit harder just because of the bullet. They might just expand a little more than some of the less expensive ones given the right conditions. If you really think the caliber your carry piece is chambered in is inadequate, a slightly differently formed bullet isn't going to make ta big difference. It just gives it a little more expansion under given conditions. But if you can afford the bullet type that you see as ideal, go for it. Otherwise get what you can afford.

Got it. From now on, will not carry Hydra-Shok, Gold Dot, Ranger, DPX or similar, because I can't afford "a couple of boxes (100 rounds)" per pistol for testing for all my semi-autos. Also, will stop carrying semi-autos for self-defense, but will carry only revolvers from now on.

Or, I could do function testing the cheap way, as described above. Nah, I'll just retire the semi-autos. Thanks for the useful advice; I'll get right on it.

When I get a new gun, I fire 200-300 rounds of target ammo. If I have ZERO failures, I fire maybe 15-20 rounds of hollow points. If they function fine, then I am satisfied. I may shoot a few more hollow points on subsequent trips. But, I don't fire 100+ hollow points before I rely on a gun. That is admittedly too expensive.

Originally Posted by milquetoast

Got it. From now on, will not carry Hydra-Shok, Gold Dot, Ranger, DPX or similar, because I can't afford "a couple of boxes (100 rounds)" per pistol for testing for all my semi-autos. Also, will stop carrying semi-autos for self-defense, but will carry only revolvers from now on.

Or, I could do function testing the cheap way, as described above. Nah, I'll just retire the semi-autos. Thanks for the useful advice; I'll get right on it.

The point I was making was that if you can't shoot a given round/load enough to gain confidence in it, then don't buy it. I generally shoot the rounds I use for defense. I can afford to do so as I put them together myself. I also feel it's important to practice with a given load you'll be using. With factory ammunition, you have to fire your expensive rounds as you can't be sure as to how well the charge is duplicated in your practice stuff. That gives you a different POI and different performance between your practice stuff and the stuff you'll be staking your life on. I feel that the best compromise for someone in your situation is to buy the ammunition you can get a good "feel" for.

Originally Posted by Baldy

I reload it for about $5.50 for 50@ .11 cents a shot.

I sure wish I could get 50 rounds of .45 for $5.50! How do you do it? Where does one go about learning how to reload? I am sure it also has to deal with how cheap you can find all the parts as well (case, primer, powder, etc). Learn me Baldy!

Originally Posted by -gunut-

I sure wish I could get 50 rounds of .45 for $5.50! How do you do it? Where does one go about learning how to reload? I am sure it also has to deal with how cheap you can find all the parts as well (case, primer, powder, etc). Learn me Baldy!

And I sure wish I could get DPX, Hydra-Shok, Gold Dot, and other "high quality hollow points" for 40 cents a round. Maybe somebody can learn me that! Until then, even at 80 cents to a dollar a round, the typical price of the "good stuff," I can afford to test thoroughly, simply by loading ball/HP/ball/HP/ball/HP. We all can.

With nine .45's, and DPX at $1 a round, I can get 900 test cycles for, say, $300 instead of $900. Even assuming somebody knows a source of 40 cent DPX/HS/GD, etc., and only has one gun to test, the choice is between $40 and $25. If there are people out there who don't need to save money, that's their business, I guess. Whatever....

Originally Posted by milquetoast

And I sure wish I could get DPX, Hydra-Shok, Gold Dot, and other "high quality hollow points" for 40 cents a round. Maybe somebody can learn me that! Until then, even at 80 cents to a dollar a round, the typical price of the "good stuff," I can afford to test thoroughly, simply by loading ball/HP/ball/HP/ball/HP. We all can.

Like I said, you can get a 50 round box of Gold Dot (high quality hollow points) online for around $20. Just keep looking! If you have soooo many .45's then I am sure you can afford that. Especially with your method of testing the rounds. I really don't care what you do or do not do.

Originally Posted by -gunut-

I sure wish I could get 50 rounds of .45 for $5.50! How do you do it? Where does one go about learning how to reload? I am sure it also has to deal with how cheap you can find all the parts as well (case, primer, powder, etc). Learn me Baldy!

Your initial start up cost is about the price of a good gun. Press,scale, and on, and on. Buy your bullets,powder,and shells the frist time in bulk. Shells can be used over and over or till they split. You have to have a fair supplier near you with in driving distance. Mines 40 miles away. It will take a few years to pay for your stuff but in the ln long run you will save a bunch. Everytime you shoot 100rds of .45 you save $10 or $11 and you take that off the cost of your loading equipment. It will take awhile but in due time your making cartridges for a lot less than you can buy them for and they are tuned for your gun. Good luck. Start with a couple of reloading books and ask a bunch of questions.

Originally Posted by Baldy

Start with a couple of reloading books and ask a bunch of questions.

Why does everyone recommend a FEW good reloading books? How much knowledge could it possibly take to reload a practice round?

I know that this stuff is dangerous...but the reloading books I have seen are THICK. I cannot immagine needing all that info to put a few grains of powder into a primed casing, placing a bullet on top, and crimping.

I figure a nice pamphlet should suffice.

Do those books go into great detail as to mixing the powders for certain effects? Can you usually stick with a single powder for most loads? Do you need to learn a lot about metal and metalurgy?

I just don't get it...

I couldn't let that go without a comment.

NEVER, EVER mix powders.

That kind of thinking is exactly why you need to read more than just a
pamphlet before jumping into reloading.

Find a friend who is into reloading and ask him about the subject.

Originally Posted by OMSBH44

I couldn't let that go without a comment.

NEVER, EVER mix powders.

That kind of thinking is exactly why you need to read more than just a
pamphlet before jumping into reloading.

Find a friend who is into reloading and ask him about the subject.

OK...you just made my point for me. If mixing is NOT allowed...a simple capitalized line like the following can be added to each page of the pamphlet:

DO NOT MIX POWDERS.

Problem solved. If mixing is not allowed, then reloading is simplified even further. There is only 1 powder to buy...you need to know the weight of the powder, and then assemble the round. I still think a pamphlet could be used to educate the average person.

I am trying to understand how reloading requires such a large book. I mean, I guess every powder is addressed, as is every casing, primer, bullet, press, tumbler...and so on. Is that what is contained in the books? In addition, why should several books be consulted?

If I want to reload ONLY 9mm FMJ for practice...why would I need to read 3 books on the subject? Once I understand how to remove the old primer, and install a new one, and I weigh the powder to the .1 grain (how precise do you need to be?) and I have the equipment, and crimp the bullet...what else is there.

Aside from safety guidelines and procedures...if you are only reloading 1 bullet type for one specific purpose...how could 2000 pages of text be justified?

I must admit that I may also load +P as well, and I would need an extra page or two of explanation as to the safe methods of doing so.

Originally Posted by milquetoast

Got it. From now on, will not carry Hydra-Shok, Gold Dot, Ranger, DPX or similar, because I can't afford "a couple of boxes (100 rounds)" per pistol for testing for all my semi-autos. Also, will stop carrying semi-autos for self-defense, but will carry only revolvers from now on.

Or, I could do function testing the cheap way, as described above. Nah, I'll just retire the semi-autos. Thanks for the useful advice; I'll get right on it.

Unnecessary.

Originally Posted by bangbang

OK...you just made my point for me. If mixing is NOT allowed...a simple capitalized line like the following can be added to each page of the pamphlet:

DO NOT MIX POWDERS.

Problem solved. If mixing is not allowed, then reloading is simplified even further. There is only 1 powder to buy...you need to know the weight of the powder, and then assemble the round. I still think a pamphlet could be used to educate the average person.

I am trying to understand how reloading requires such a large book. I mean, I guess every powder is addressed, as is every casing, primer, bullet, press, tumbler...and so on. Is that what is contained in the books? In addition, why should several books be consulted?

If I want to reload ONLY 9mm FMJ for practice...why would I need to read 3 books on the subject? Once I understand how to remove the old primer, and install a new one, and I weigh the powder to the .1 grain (how precise do you need to be?) and I have the equipment, and crimp the bullet...what else is there.

Aside from safety guidelines and procedures...if you are only reloading 1 bullet type for one specific purpose...how could 2000 pages of text be justified?

I must admit that I may also load +P as well, and I would need an extra page or two of explanation as to the safe methods of doing so.

Many of the reloading books are manuals, giving the information one might need on any caliber of gun for which the reader is reloading. So, you would not need to know much of the information contained in the manual. But, if you decide to reload another caliber, you have the information needed. Even the manuals will have several chapters devoted to learning the basics of reloading since reloading by its very nature carries the risk of serious injury to your gun and you (and bystanders) if you don't know what you're doing. It sounds like you view reloading as a chore instead of a rewarding hobby. So, you are looking for the most efficient way to get the chore done. Most reloaders, I think, like to reload, gain satisfaction from it that goes beyond the cost savings and they want to gain as much information as they can about reloading. If it really is more like a chore to you, I suggest you avoid the initial outlay of funds and stick to buying factory ammo, as many shooters do.

Originally Posted by Shipwreck

When I get a new gun, I fire 200-300 rounds of target ammo. If I have ZERO failures, I fire maybe 15-20 rounds of hollow points. If they function fine, then I am satisfied. I may shoot a few more hollow points on subsequent trips. But, I don't fire 100+ hollow points before I rely on a gun. That is admittedly too expensive.

+1. If I do have a FTF of other ammo related problem, I repeat the process untill I'm satisfied I know what caused it and/or the problem is corrected (bad ammo, poor grip, broken pin or spring, etc).

Thank you Milque I'm tired of people saying how much is your life worth.
The average person out there can barely afford health care unless they got insurance and this is a fact most Americans have to live with. So, "how much is your life worth" is getting tiring.

Seeing as you pay as much for 20 specialty rounds as you do for the average 100pack practice ammo. I agree.
When I use to carry Federal Hydra-shocks shooting the stuff was an exuberant luxury. Shooting my gun in general is a luxury. Twenty to forty for ammo plus range fees plus gas plus what ever, it adds up.

Hey Milquetoast...

Your idea is sound for testing feeding issues...but not perfect. It also does not test ejectability of the defensive ammo.

I like the idea of combining your method with a few magazines of pure defensive.

You can cycle 200 rounds of defensive using your method, and only firing 100 practice rounds...but at the end of all that...I recommend shooting 50 rounds in a row of the defensive to ensure that they load after one another. By shooting the rounds consecutively, you ensure that they will cycle with each other. The defensive ammo may have different characteristics than the practice ammo, and thus, the slide will be affected differently.

If my defensive round is a 124gr +P, but my practice round is a 115gr...then the cycle action will be different for both rounds.

If possible, make the practice round as identical to the defensive round as possible...then when you are done with your tests...shoot a few magazines worth of JUST the defensive ammo.

Also, if you get Speer Gold Dots from http://www.miragetechnologies.net , they will only cost you $16 per 50 (in 9mm) which is only twice what I pay for WWB 9mm at WalMart. Pretty good price!!!

Great online site for ammo http://www.natchezss.com/index.cfm?C...TOKEN=61770599 Excellent service!!!

My current favorite carry ammo is DPX, at about a buck a pop, but hey, that was my choice, so I'll live with it, so to speak.

Speaking of expensive ammo. Back around 1994 or 1995, I bought a Para-Ordnance P-14 as my "Rodney King Riot" car gun. I could hardly wait to try it out. Drove out to the boondocks, found a safe backstop, and ripped off 14 rounds as fast as I could. Then I remembered that I had loaded the mag with Black Talons. Ouch.