Used to use Rem Oil and Gunscrubber for many years. Then, read some info stating that Rem Oil actually has some water in it (very small amt).

I ended up switching to Breakfree CLP - use it to clean and lube. Very easy now...

CLP ROCKS. I'm slowly learning to like GunButter also. seems like good stuff.

Well, the Breakfree CLP is so easy to find. I don't buy the spray can at Wal-Mart anymore, because it always runs out of pressure w/ oil still in it. I buy the lquid bottle now. But, if ya had to buy the spray can, it's pretty much everywhere (every wal-mart). So, its easy to find.

Gun Butter

I like Breakfree CLP for the moving parts and Mil-Comm TW-25B grease for the rails.

Sig ships a sample of TW-25B with new pistols now; I tried it and liked it, so I bought a 4 oz tube.

Originally Posted by Shipwreck

Breakfree CLP - use it to clean and lube. Very easy now...

+1

I'll also use Hoppes #9 sometimes...

Originally Posted by jwkimber45

..I'm slowly learning to like GunButter also. seems like good stuff.

What's the deal with this stuff? I found two bottles a while back (one was pine scented (?)) and read the label - stated it was for black powder rifles. Why would they target so small of a market, or do they have more products than I've run across?

Today I clean mostly with Hoppes#9 and oil with CLP. Nathan let me ask you a question. When was the last time you seen a wore out slide on a 1911 45? I been around 60 yrs and I haven't seen one yet. I seen a bunch that were loose or sloppy, but the gun was still accuate. I known a man that claims to have close to 1/2 million rounds through his and it's still working. I have seen them broke from various things like inproper fit and such. Like some guy thinks he's a gunsmith or JB himself.

I use Breakfree CLP for light lubrication and rust prevention, and use Wilson's Ultima-lube grease for high pressure points like the slide rails and barrel locking lugs.

Originally Posted by Baldy

When was the last time you seen a wore out slide on a 1911 45?

I haven't really, but that doesn't mean that I need to try and be the first. Logic seems to state that if the oil is thin enough to run, it will do so eventually. Sure there might be a very thin layer left behind, but is that really optimal? A grease might do a better job in the long run because it stays where you put it.

I don't know if you've ever torn apart an engine, but if you ever get the opportunity, take a look at one that has run Mobil 1 all it's life vs. a conventional oil. Sure the conventional oil engine might still run, but the Mobil 1 engine will show nearly zero wear.

No reason not to figure out what is the best and use it.

I'm not really qualified to talk about pistols, but I use FP-10 on my shotguns (and handguns unless I find something better)...and I clean stuff with CLP too and when I'm too lazy to degrease and relube I leave it on...seems to work well for me. I steer way clear of rem-oil, might be good in a pistol at the range but when you're using your shotgun for a spare paddle crossing the icy Delaware like Washington..it really performs poorly ...I guess though that with shotguns we deal with the opposite, pistols too hot, as opposed to too shotguns too cold.

Also I am curious...has anyone tried Mil-Tec? I have a few samples of it.

Food for thought.....
Oil in an engine (under pressure from the pump of course ) builds a .001-.003 "layer" to seperate engine parts to reduce wear,grease without any pump pressure is even thicker...ok now put that grease on your barrels locking lugs and its taking up space needed for the lugs to fully engage,BAD JUJU. Thin oils and frequent cleaning/lubing are for the most part better for any automatic pistol or rifle.

Sorry to differ with you, scooter, but the light coating of grease I use on my pistols is not enough to take up space needed for locking lugs to fully engage. What grease does is stay on better on pressure points than a light oil. To use an automotive analogy, on ball joints, CV joints,tie rod ends, etc. where there is no oil pressure system, grease is always used. I have been using grease for a lot of years with no signs of excessive wear, so I'll stick to what works for me, but if oil stays on and works for you, that's good too.

I use Tetra grease on the parts that need it, like on receiver rails, barrel rub areas, any area where metal slides on metal with pressure; and Breakfree CLP for everything else. I used to use MiliTech-1 but found I like Breakfree better.

Yes I tore a lot of motors apart. I raced at one time Harley's & Car's. Scooter's got it right. You want oil to flow the grit and muck away. Grease will hold the dirt and trap it. That's why I carry oil in my range bag. After about a 100 or so rounds I give the rails a shot and carry on.
I use to sell Amsoil and used it in racing motors. 5w20 would work great in guns too.

Eezox.

I use FP10 and Slide Glide

Hey P97 I got some of that Eezox coming in. Going to try it out.

Militec-1 is by far the best

Use FP-10 on all my guns works great for me.

Originally Posted by Baldy

Hey P97 I got some of that Eezox coming in. Going to try it out.

I guarantee you will be supprised. After the second cleaning with it, I use it once a month in Summer, and about every 3 months in winter. Its all the lubrication I use and I have no visible wear on slide or parts. I like it because it is dry, and don't collect dirt, or get on your clothing. After you use it a while, tell what you think of it, good or bad.

I have been using Hoppe's #9 Gun Oil for about 37 years, seems to work pretty well.

I tried some CLP today, that has to be about the worst smelling stuff I've ever dealt with. Seemed to do a decent job, it just wasn't pleasant to deal with.

I've been using #9 for cleaning and I think I'll probably stick with it. It smells strong, but I don't dislike it. The CLP is just nasty. I'll keep it around for things that are just too hard to clean with #9.