You want brass punches - to minimize marks on the gun as you punch stuff out.

Harbor Freight used to sell brass punches, but they no longer do around here in TX. A set is typically expensive. I have one I bought from Midway USA - a 3/32" - I occasionally use it, and I have found that this particular size tends to fit most gun related things that need a punch. Sometimes, I can get by with an allen wrench instead of a punch.

Wal-mart sells punch sets for cheap - but once again, they are not brass (but are steel)

Brownells carries brass punches, alone and in sets.
There are also aluminum and nylon punches.

Unless you have a detailed schematic and instructions, and are mechanically adept, stick to field-stripping for cleaning.
It is not normally necessary to detail-strip most modern pistols.

Deep internal cleaning without disassembly can be easily accomplished with an aerosol spray, for instance a "gun scrubber."

Originally Posted by Shipwreck

You want brass punches - to minimize marks on the gun as you punch stuff out.

Harbor Freight used to sell brass punches, but they no longer do around here in TX. A set is typically expensive. I have one I bought from Midway USA - a 3/32" - I occasionally use it, and I have found that this particular size tends to fit most gun related things that need a punch. Sometimes, I can get by with an allen wrench instead of a punch.

Wal-mart sells punch sets for cheap - but once again, they are not brass (but are steel)

Thanks for the tip!

Originally Posted by Steve M1911A1

Brownells carries brass punches, alone and in sets.
There are also aluminum and nylon punches.

Unless you have a detailed schematic and instructions, and are mechanically adept, stick to field-stripping for cleaning.
It is not normally necessary to detail-strip most modern pistols.

Deep internal cleaning without disassembly can be easily accomplished with an aerosol spray, for instance a "gun scrubber."

I'm looking for a set. I can get pretty OCD with cleaning, once I start cleaning something, I need to have the whole thing cleaned. If I clean out a drawer in my room, best believe that the rest of the room will be cleaned by the end of the day LOL.


I don't have a detailed schematic just a few vids on youtube of users doing a full take down of the same pistol I have and I'm pretty mechanically adept. But I might just take your advice and leave the trigger and hammer assembly alone but I really want to break down the slide along with the extractor and firing pin and make sure those get cleaned well.

You do not have to break down the extractor and firing pin area very often.

I previously had a Walther P99 (several, actually). They were very easy to break the slide apart (as are Kahrs). Anyway, at the 1k mark, I took the extractor and striker out. It was really a waste of time. Nothing in there. Did it again at 3k - once again - itw as fine.

At the time, I was using CCI Blazer aluminum ammo. It is the cleanest 9mm ammo I have ever shot. If you are shooting something like WWB, it could get dirty faster. However, if you start punching stuff out everytime you clean the gun, you can lossen things that aren't meant to be removed that often. Also - if they are rollpins, some pins (like on Hks, for example) are made to be replaced when you take them out.

Wow at 3k? I'm about to hit only 1k. Hrmmmm maybe I'll wait a little more longer before buying and using a set then.

Ive been using federal and indepence but the brass says blazer so I'm not sure if that counts..

What gun is it that you want to take apart? You may not even need a punch set.

Originally Posted by Shipwreck

What gun is it that you want to take apart? You may not even need a punch set.

His original post said a full size Beretta PX4 Storm.

Originally Posted by numbertwo

I have a Beretta PX4 Storm (full size) and I'm getting to the point where I might have to strip it down and clean everything. I'll need a punch set but I can't figure out which one I'll need. Can anyone give me some quick advice before I end up buying too much or too little?

Brownells has the punch sets in steel, the brass punches must be bought separately. Steel is what you want to disassemble the pistol. Brass is what you want when drifting sights

Originally Posted by jm38

...Steel is what you want to disassemble the pistol...

...Until a steel punch slips, and leaves a permanent ding.

Until you've gained some experience, I would caution you to use brass or Nylon.

Yes indeed. Its easy to slip. I would not use steel punches

Plus, the insides of the the Beretta slides can become kinda tricky. Make sure you know what you are doing. The frame is easy to strip. I don't usually mess with my Beretta slides (disassembly wise)

I found this set of Brass & Steel punches on Sears website; appears to cover a range of sizes anb is reasonably priced (<$25)....

Cal-Hawk 18-piece Brass and Carbon Steel Pin Punch Set W/ctr Punch
Sears Item# SPM5860665409 | Model# B004BCSU9G
8-pc. Solid brass punches: 1/16", 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 7/32", 1/4", 5/16" 8-pc. Heat treated steel punches: 1/16", 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 7/32", 1/4", 5/16" 1-pc. Brass handle automatic center punch 1-pc. Vinyl storage bag

That's not too bad. Steel punches are cheap at wal-mart, but unfortunately, they do not carry brass ones.

Interesting. At this point I'll definitely stay away from a full break down but when would you guys recommend a full break down if ever there was a time?

When?
Half-serious, half-joking answer: Do the full breakdown only after you've found a good gunsmith who will let you watch him do it a couple of times.
Then, if you get yourself into trouble—which you will—you'll have an easy-to-access recourse.

I was very lucky to have a really good pistolsmith as a close friend, who was patient enough to answer my questions and to let me watch him work.
After a while, after gaining confidence, I started doing my own work.
I never did get skilled or patient enough to do a really good trigger job, and I never learned how to run a lathe, but I certainly did learn a lot.

Lol fair enough! Thanks everyone!