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Thread: Gun cleaning

  1. #1
    ejamest14 is offline Junior Member
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    Gun cleaning

    Whats a good product to clean a gun? And also what is a good lube/grease/oil for a gun?

  2. #2
    recoilguy's Avatar
    recoilguy is offline Senior Member
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    Almost any over the counter gun cleaner will work. You can use Mobil 1 synth for a lube it is inexpensive and that really fires up some gun owners. Hoppes will cause the nickle plating on weapons like Bersas to delaminate so if you have a nickle coated gun be careful with Hoppes.

    I like weapon sheild. Because It works great and it smells good.

    RCG

  3. #3
    Sully2 is offline Banned
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    Quote Originally Posted by ejamest14 View Post
    Whats a good product to clean a gun? And also what is a good lube/grease/oil for a gun?

    I use FP-10 for OIL lube; Tetra grease when a GREASE lube is reqd; Break Free as a cleaning "lube" and if Im storing away for a period I use ClenzOil on the outside.

    I use Hoppe's when the bore needs a GOOD scrubing

  4. #4
    unpecador's Avatar
    unpecador is offline Senior Member HGF Gold Member
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    Hoppe’s and Break-Free make a variety of products. I like to use Break Free CLP for an overall cleaner, Hoppe's No. 9 Solvent for the bore, and Hoppe's Lubricating Oil.

  5. #5
    mike.45px4's Avatar
    mike.45px4 is offline Junior Member
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    Gun cleaning

    Has anyone ever used ROYAL PURPLE gun oil?? Also, can someone fill me in on why mobile 1 synthetic motor oil is used on firearms, it doesnt seem like a smart idea but I havent heard anything bad either. Is motor oil a good choice??

  6. #6
    tabdog's Avatar
    tabdog is offline Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike.45px4 View Post
    Has anyone ever used ROYAL PURPLE gun oil?? Also, can someone fill me in on why mobile 1 synthetic motor oil is used on firearms, it doesnt seem like a smart idea but I havent heard anything bad either. Is motor oil a good choice??

    I haven't used ROYAL PURPLE gun oil.

    But, I think Mobile 1 synthetic motor oil is a good oil. It
    is designed for high temps and to be a good lubricant.

    I also think any high quality, high temp grease will work
    for lube on autos. That is what I use. I don't know the
    brand name, but it is not sold for pistols.

    But I keep cans of Remington Oil around and use that the
    most. After shooting, I like to squirt it on the extractor
    area and down the barrel. After it sets a while, it usually
    doesn't need a cleaner. Just a brush and cloth pads, and
    some more Remington Oil.

    I use Hoppes if I see streaking left in barrel.

    Happy Shootin,

    Tabdog

  7. #7
    mike.45px4's Avatar
    mike.45px4 is offline Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by tabdog View Post
    I haven't used ROYAL PURPLE gun oil.

    But, I think Mobile 1 synthetic motor oil is a good oil. It
    is designed for high temps and to be a good lubricant.

    I also think any high quality, high temp grease will work
    for lube on autos. That is what I use. I don't know the
    brand name, but it is not sold for pistols.

    But I keep cans of Remington Oil around and use that the
    most. After shooting, I like to squirt it on the extractor
    area and down the barrel. After it sets a while, it usually
    doesn't need a cleaner. Just a brush and cloth pads, and
    some more Remington Oil.

    I use Hoppes if I see streaking left in barrel.

    Happy Shootin,

    Tabdog

    Didnt know Rem Oil cleaned that well. How long do you let it set in?
    Thanks Tabdog

  8. #8
    Leo's Avatar
    Leo
    Leo is offline Member
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    I am using Eezox to clean and lube my guns.

  9. #9
    GURU1911 is offline Member
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    Amsoil "mp" is an excellent gun lube---product #ampsc. For a one product that does most everything well, you cannot beat "break-free clp"

  10. #10
    GReb is offline Junior Member
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    Break Free is pretty run of the mill IMO. It's on the same level as Hoppe's as for a solvent goes but is not a very good protector. I turned to Ballistol and will never use any other solvent. It's some top notch stuff. Can't go wrong with German products.

    As a good rule of thumb, the products you use aren't as important as the thoroughness of your cleaning job and its frequency. Try to clean guns in storage every couple of months to prevent the oils from drying up

  11. #11
    RiverDog is offline Junior Member
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    Break Free

    It is my understanding that Break Free will do a very nice job and strip everything away from the parts.

    However!

    As it does that it strips any and all the lubrication that was on the gun. So if you clean down the gun with break free, you have to lubercate all of the working parts again.

    Break free is very good for magazines, becuse magazines should not be lubicated. But if you are like me and clean your guns often, putting a very light coat between the spring and casing of the magazine will not harm anything. The talk about it harming you ammo is a moot point. My experiance has told me that the number one cause of semi-auto jams comes from the magazine.

    I have read that the manufactures say that the number one reason for return problems is from "over lubracating." The second is under lubracation.

    So what do you do? Well, clean your gun more often like you should do. And when you do, one drop of oil can sometimes be overkill. Really. When you break down and clean a gun it is ready to go. Most solvent's link Hoppies are self lubracating. Applying oil to the gun parts should be very, very, little. (Unless you used Break Free) If you use Break Free, your gun will not be lubracated. You will have to oil every moving part.

    You have to read the lable. Some sovents like Hoppe's clean and lube. Some do not.

    I alway clean and lightly oil any metal on metal parts...lightly.

    If you clean your guns after shooting like you should do it is a non-issue. If you let them sit for a year, it can become an issue. Don't do that. Here's the deal. First, clean the barrel. Make sure that happens. Break down the gun and clean all the moving parts. Lightly.


    There has been a lot of talk about the firing pin. Don't touch it. It wasn't designed to be lubricated or anything. Don't fuss with the pin unless you know why you are doing that. Nine out of ten times the pin will never be your problem. Probably more than that.

    If you are new an just bought your gun, here is the deal. (smile) Learn how to take it down and maintain it. So many people have a semi-auto and don't know how to break it down and clean it. (So much for Army) I'm a stickler when it come to that. Because they will fail.

    Properly maintained, most of them work like a champ.

  12. #12
    Brevard13 is offline Member
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    I use the rem oil wipes. Works wonders. My biggest problem is I know the basic break down. I have never tore a handgun or rifle completely down before. Guess I'm afraid I won't get it back together.

  13. #13
    ronmail65 is offline Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by RiverDog View Post
    It is my understanding that Break Free will do a very nice job and strip everything away from the parts.

    However!

    As it does that it strips any and all the lubrication that was on the gun. So if you clean down the gun with break free, you have to lubercate all of the working parts again.

    Break free is very good for magazines, becuse magazines should not be lubicated. But if you are like me and clean your guns often, putting a very light coat between the spring and casing of the magazine will not harm anything. The talk about it harming you ammo is a moot point. My experiance has told me that the number one cause of semi-auto jams comes from the magazine.

    I have read that the manufactures say that the number one reason for return problems is from "over lubracating." The second is under lubracation.

    So what do you do? Well, clean your gun more often like you should do. And when you do, one drop of oil can sometimes be overkill. Really. When you break down and clean a gun it is ready to go. Most solvent's link Hoppies are self lubracating. Applying oil to the gun parts should be very, very, little. (Unless you used Break Free) If you use Break Free, your gun will not be lubracated. You will have to oil every moving part.

    You have to read the lable. Some sovents like Hoppe's clean and lube. Some do not.

    I alway clean and lightly oil any metal on metal parts...lightly.

    If you clean your guns after shooting like you should do it is a non-issue. If you let them sit for a year, it can become an issue. Don't do that. Here's the deal. First, clean the barrel. Make sure that happens. Break down the gun and clean all the moving parts. Lightly.


    There has been a lot of talk about the firing pin. Don't touch it. It wasn't designed to be lubricated or anything. Don't fuss with the pin unless you know why you are doing that. Nine out of ten times the pin will never be your problem. Probably more than that.

    If you are new an just bought your gun, here is the deal. (smile) Learn how to take it down and maintain it. So many people have a semi-auto and don't know how to break it down and clean it. (So much for Army) I'm a stickler when it come to that. Because they will fail.

    Properly maintained, most of them work like a champ.
    I hear ya, but Break Free says it "Cleans, Lubricates, and Protects". So you're saying, "not true" on the lubricates. So, what should I use after I apply Break Free (on the slide and other internal parts)? Mill-Comm?

    And, what do you recommend on the outside of the gun as a protectant... parkerized finishes like a Sig or a Glock?

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