I have always been a fan of Birchwood Casey Barricade.

Scott

Wiping it down with a lightly lubricated rag on a regular basis can help, as can trying to control the humidity in the storage container. Usually, the problem in the winter is when you bring a gun into the house from outside (car trunk/console/glovebox?), the gun is noticeably colder and moisture will condense on it, just like a cold soft drink can on a warm/humid summer day. Bring the gun up to room temperature reasonably quickly (I have a spot to hang mine over a forced-air heating vent), and then wipe it down with the oiled rag. If it seems really wet as it warms up, wipe it with a dry rag to remove the moisture, and be sure to pop it apart and check the innards for rust or condensation, too. A small patch with some oil on it can be rubbed into the grooves on the bottom of the slide, for instance, to prevent rust there.

This is what they look like up here in the far northern plains when you bring them inside this time of year; the moisture starts out as FROST, then as the weapon warms up it turns to water, then finally it evaporates and I can wipe it down with the lubed rag:

I'm a big fan of G96. I use it to clean all of my guns and haven't had any rust issues.

Guns wiped down with oil. They also get wiped down with a silicone rag every now and again. I also have one of these in my safe. http://www.amazon.com/Eva-dry-EDV-E-.../dp/B000H0XFD2 Cheap and when it's full, plug it in for a few hours and you're good to go again. Never had a rust issue.

Oil can indeed help to keep rust away, but there are a few other products to consider as well. The Barricade already mentioned is pretty good, as is Sheath and CPL. The one that I like is Eezox, which is also a lube and cleaner as well. There are some interesting rust prevention tests out there that show how good Eezox is.

If you can control the humidity, even a cheap gun oil will work. However, if your situaton isn't ideal, I would go with a product that is higher up the prevention scale.....

Rust Test........

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

I use Break Free or Eezox

I keep a container of "Damp-Rid" in my safe. It can be found at the hardware store and maybe at dept. stores. It comes in several different sizes and configurations. It contains crystals that absorb ambient moisture and once they are compleately dissolved just throw away or empty and refill the crystals. The dehumidifier that Todd sugested also looks nice. The damp-rid, along with a good coat of oil, has helped me to regulate the moisture and keep my rust issues down to zero with little to no effort.

Limit the time your safe door is open.

Don't 'breath' into your safe when putting things in or out.

Moisture is the enemy- there's oxygen in the air and ya cant get around that fact, humid air compounds this fact. Oxygen and steel = rust. Oil only goes so far. Hard wax works better for long term storage. Or cosmoline (yuk).


http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...set=ISO-8859-1

Just wanted to update this...

DJ, you're method is the one I decided to go with. Got back yesterday from shooting the Beretta and two Ruger's and they were ice cold. Left them out for a few hours, wiped them down with a cloth and tucked them away. The cloth is one that I use to wipe off excess oil and hoppes when cleaning so I suspect that will do the job.

Thanks guys

You should also use some sort of dessicant in your safe to absorb moisture. Rust is not the only problem moisture causes. Mold and mildew will also grow in a damp environment.

Originally Posted by macgulley

You should also use some sort of dessicant in your safe to absorb moisture. Rust is not the only problem moisture causes. Mold and mildew will also grow in a damp environment.

You know, this isn't a bad idea at all....!

I think I'll be saving the next few packets of Silica Gel I receive just to chuck them into the corners of my safes.

I have been reading the responses here, and is there such a thing as a vacuum sealing gun safe? I mean, if you were to create a vacuum in your gun safe theoretically there should be less (I doubt you could get your safe completely free of oxygen) oxygen in the safe correct? I think this may be a new project for me in the future.

I am thinking also you would need to have some desiccants in there too.

Originally Posted by Buffal0

I have been reading the responses here, and is there such a thing as a vacuum sealing gun safe? I mean, if you were to create a vacuum in your gun safe theoretically there should be less (I doubt you could get your safe completely free of oxygen) oxygen in the safe correct? I think this may be a new project for me in the future.

I am thinking also you would need to have some desiccants in there too.

I suppose it would be possible although difficult. It might be easier to fill the safe with an inert gas. It could be near atmospheric pressure and would likely be easier to maintain than a vacuum.

I don't plan on doing this, but has anyone tried using one of those seal-a-meal devices for their guns? We use ours all the time when we buy food when it is on sale and throw it in the freezer. Of course you probably won't want to toss your gun in the freezer!

Scott

Originally Posted by scottaschultz

I don't plan on doing this, but has anyone tried using one of those seal-a-meal devices for their guns? We use ours all the time when we buy food when it is on sale and throw it in the freezer. Of course you probably won't want to toss your gun in the freezer!

Scott

This might be a better plan. It would be pretty easy to do. I'd just oil the gun up and maybe put in a little pack of dessicant (extra insurance) before I sealed it.

Eh so I was looking into the whole deal of making a vacuum sealed case, and the only thing stopping me is that the locks would let too much air in, and therefore the pump that creates the vacuum would be running constantly.

BUT

I have found and alternate. this would be to put a small voltage lightbulb in the case to keep the case at a relatively constant temperature, which would in turn prevent rust. You could also us ea small heater if you chose to.

Originally Posted by Marcus99

The cloth is one that I use to wipe off excess oil and hoppes when cleaning so I suspect that will do the job.

So, you're hoping that the oily part of the rag puts oil on the gun - without the Hoppes solvent part of the rag taking it off? Why not just use a clean rag, put a bit of oil on it, then wipe the gun down with the oily part of the rag.

Or spring the $3 for a silicone cloth that will last for years and won't (or shouldn't) ever be contaminated by dirt or solvent.

It's usually common for beretta barrels to quickly develop rust. When I was issued a Beretta I didn't carry it and put it away in a cabinet. Same thing happened so from that time on, I kept it hidden away with a thin layer of Break-free applied to the outside of the barrel.

Here's a link to a very good comparison of some rust preventatives.
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

Originally Posted by macgulley

Here's a link to a very good comparison of some rust preventatives.
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

Oooh la la. Danke

guys I know use these in their classic cars specifically for rust (and molds):

(go shopping for desiccant bags)

I've never used them, I can see the positives...
(just like Todd and Macgully mention)
-john

Originally Posted by Buffal0

Oooh la la. Danke

Bitte.

Midway also sells dessicant in several different forms. Just do a search on their home page and you will see 6 different products.

Scott

I like Drierite Indicating (http://www.drierite.com/default.cfm) because it changes color when it has absorbed its limit of moisture. When that happens, you can put it in the oven and reactivate it. It's important to know that any desiccant will only absorb so much moisture so you can't just put a pack in and forget about it forever. I'm not familiar with other desiccants but Drierite is good stuff.