Good trick to know. Thanks Bob.

I have had luck removing separated cases with an oversized bronze or stainless steel wire brush. It needs to be big enough to go into the stuck brass snugly without the wire reversing as you pull the brush back with the front piece of the cartridge stuck on the brush.

Originally Posted by Bob Wright

Couple of years back, while working with my .45 Colt loads in the Ruger, I ran into a bunch of blown case heads. The head separated right ahead of the web, leaving the rest of the case stuck tight in the chamber. On the way home I'd stop by my gunsmith's and he'd remove the case, for $10.00. This began to add up.

I solved my problem by buying a tap for threading holes. I found a 7/16 UNC2 tap would just enter the brass case. By turning the tap (using a tap wrench) about a quarter of a turn, the tap would bite into the soft brass firm enough to pull it out. I don't have them in front of me now, but I bought taps in sizes for .44 Magnum, .357 Magnum, and .45 Colt. The .45 Colt will work with .45 ACP, but the barrel must be removed to gain access to the chamber.

Bob Wright

Sounds like you need to look at reducing your loads or using new brass to work up your loads.

Why would you remove the barrel on a revolver to access the cylinder?

Originally Posted by 2400

Sounds like you need to look at reducing your loads or using new brass to work up your loads.

Why would you remove the barrel on a revolver to access the cylinder?

Disculpe, por favor!

I should have been more clear in my wording. I should have said the .45 ACP in autoloading pistols..........."

Thanks for bringing that to my attention.

Yes, I eventually cut back on my loading. I was experimenting with heavy loads at the time, using heavy bullets and H110 or Winchester 296. I had some 350 gr. round nose flat point bullets among others and was experimenting.

I determined to wring out the .45 with everything from black powder to buffalo loads at the time.
Bob Wright