Shorter round" leading question
Can anyone give good advice on how to clean a leaded cylinder from "shorter" rounds ? As in .38 Special in a .357 Mag. Or .44 Special in a .44 Mag.
I just bought a Ruger Alaskan in .454 Casull. With Trijicon night sights and Magna porting. It's my new "mountain hiking" gun. Yes, "a bit" of recoil for $2.50 a round.
I bought it with the idea of using a lot of .45 LC for practice. I have plenty of ammo, since I have a 1866 Yellowboy clone and a 1873 Single-Action clone in .45 LC.
OK, .45 LC isn't exactly cheap stuff, but it's not $2.50 a round. It's all factory Win or Rem with lead wadcutters or lead roundnose.
I won't use gun show reloads after having a "bullet jump" problem in the rifle. Not fun.
Should I do more than normal cleaning to "dissolve" lead buildup in the cylinder ?
And, what's the "best" stuff/method ?
Do I need to do it EVERY time before using the big (long) stuff ?
Or, are all the "scare warnings" about ruining the cylinder a bit of overkill ?
OK, I think I know the answers. But, I'm interested in others opinions.
And, of course, I wanted to brag about my new gun.
Thanks in advance !
I usually scrub my chambers with a bronze brush and solvent, but after noticing shooting really cheap ammo in my SP101 it was excessively leaded, I spent about half an hour with the brush and it still wasn't where it needed to be. I just ordered a Lewis Lead Remover from brownells, and I hear its supposed to be amazing, if it works in the barrel it will work in the chambers. Will let you know how it works when it arrives.
I use pieces of Chore Boy pads wrapped around a plastic bore brush for lead removal. As reccomended by Baldy. It works similar to the Lewis system but is much less expensive. I place a bore brush in my drill press to clean the cylinders. Soak with your favorite solvent then turn the press on to scrub the crud.
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leading in chamber 1866 yellowboy
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