What do you mean "nobody would post them"? Did you mean, nobody would sell it or ship it to you? I have one at home, somewhere, but it's not for sale. I know of some people that they use the spark plug filler gauge, BUT, here is the BUT, they use the correct size or very, very close to the correct size.

Have you tried emailing Dan Wesson and see if they have it and mail it to you?

I have only minimal experience with the Dan Wesson revolvers, but I would think a good feeler gauge from an automotive supply store (Do you have Autozone nearby?) would do the trick just as well. Or maybe a machine tool supply.

As I recall, settin that gap is not rocket science, even a thin card will do.

Bob Wright

Bonjour Bob,
you are the man!
I've just read the same thing, a .006 automotive gauge is the correct size.
I'm going to the auto store after work Tuesday.

Also read if your using cast bullets you should go with a .008 gap? I'll try both and see what happens.

Merci encore Bob,
fusil

Originally Posted by fusil

Bonjour Bob,
you are the man!
I've just read the same thing, a .006 automotive gauge is the correct size.
I'm going to the auto store after work Tuesday.

Also read if your using cast bullets you should go with a .008 gap? I'll try both and see what happens.

Merci encore Bob,
fusil

Some claim .008 is better for cast bullets, but I haven't had that experience, limited as it is. In general. .006" is pretty much standard for new fixed-barrel revolvers, though manufacturing tolerances will vary that.

Bob Wright

The .006" is average and if you are wanting to get some extra FPS and tad more accurcy then close it up to .002" to .003", you may have to do some cl;eaning on the front of the cylinder if it starts binding some. If your just plinking and going to shoot a lot of ammo, open it to .006 or even .008 for lots of shooting with out cleaning the cylinder face.

I own 4 of the DW's and in my opinion they have never been beaten for quality, relibility and ease to work on by any S&W revolver and I own a few of those. Here is the M-15 being stripped for full cleaning after a heavy range shooting day. Taking the rest of the parts out is just another couple minutes work and I am by no means a gun smith.

The powder you use may have as much bearing on gap needs as shooting lead.

I purchased a new GP100 a couple of years back which had .006" gap as delivered.

It handled lead, FMJ and plated just fine untill I tried Titegroup powder. The crud left after burning would jam rotation every few rounds. I increased the gap to .008 and it still jammed. Needless to say I no longer use Titegroup.

The .002 increase did not alter velocity according to my chrono.

[QUOTE=Waldo Pepper;191447]The .006" is average and if you are wanting to get some extra FPS and tad more accurcy then close it up to .002" to .003", you may have to do some cl;eaning on the front of the cylinder if it starts binding some. If your just plinking and going to shoot a lot of ammo, open it to .006 or even .008 for lots of shooting with out cleaning the cylinder face.

I own 4 of the DW's and in my opinion they have never been beaten for quality, relibility and ease to work on by any S&W revolver and I own a few of those. Here is the M-15 being stripped for full cleaning after a heavy range shooting day. Taking the rest of the parts out is just another couple minutes work and I am by no means a gun smith.

QUOTE]

Bonjour Waldo,
I'm VERY happy with my Dan Wesson. I have the 6" & 2" barrels for mine.
I bought it cheap (for Europe prices) and have tried both barrels. The 2" won.
The 2" in a hoot to shoot. It was bought just for plinking but even with the 2" barrel its damn accurate.

fusil

PS
nice gun

Salut Waldo,
what grip is that?
fusil