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  1. #1
    mccoy's Avatar
    mccoy is offline Member
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    Solvent and deleader

    Dear friends,

    Do you always clean barrel & cylinder chambers with solvent before using a deleader in the same revolver parts?

    I use kerosene as a solvent and that's real cheap, but when I'm in a hurry I'm tempted to skip the solvent part and go straight to deleading.

    I'll use a deleader every 200, at max 400 fired rounds (they are all hard-cast lead alloy).

  2. #2
    Bob Wright's Avatar
    Bob Wright is offline Senior Member
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    What do you use as a de-leader?

    I usually get a little leading in bore and chambers. I usually end up shooting about twenty-five rounds of jacketed stuff to remove the bulk of the leading. If I have a leaded bore, I soak it in Hoppe's #9 for a few minutes, then scrub my bore with Hoppe's on a stainless steel bore brush. Followed by dry patches, this takes care of my leading problem. For the chambers, I soak with Hoppe's #9, then brush with an oversized bronze bore brush (i.e. Use a .50 caliber for .44 and .45) chucked in an electric drill. I have a short section of old cleaning rod for this.

    For removing carbon, I use automotive carburator cleaner and flannel patches.

    I know most folks shy away from stainless steel bore brushes, But I've used them many years now with no ill effects. Use Hoppe's #9 or WD-40 for lubricant, and pass the brush all the way through the bore.

    Bob Wright

  3. #3
    zhurdan's Avatar
    zhurdan is offline Senior Member
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    When I used to shoot SASS alot, I would clean like normal and then use one of the rubber and wire mesh deleading tools. Basically, you put your cleaning rod in the bore, and then screw on the rubber stopper looking thing that is covered with a round wire mesh. Pull it thru the barrel a few times and tada... purt neer new. I wish I could remember what the tool is called exactly, but I think it's called "deleading kit" if I remember right.

    Zhur

  4. #4
    Baldy's Avatar
    Baldy is offline Senior Member
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    I wrap a little Choir Boy around an old brush and a little Hoppe's#9 and go for it. After a few passes I patch out and then oil. For soot I use kerosene sometimes or Hoppe's. Just be sure to get all of the lead remover chemical's out of your gun if you are going to store it for awhile. They will pit a barrel where Hoppe's or oil will not.

  5. #5
    mccoy's Avatar
    mccoy is offline Member
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    I use Shooter's choice deleader, it was hard to find it in my place and I wish those kits described by zhurdan were available here.

    Even the gunstore guys are not always able to help you out properly with cleaning problems.

  6. #6
    OMSBH44 is offline Member
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    zhurdan, the tool your are talking about is the "Lewis" lead remover.

    They were out of Georgia. I don't know if they are still in business.

  7. #7
    Steve M1911A1's Avatar
    Steve M1911A1 is offline Senior Member
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    The Lewis tool, or an exact copy, is available from Brownell's.
    Revolver or semi-auto, it really works.

  8. #8
    Crestliner's Avatar
    Crestliner is offline Junior Member
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    Eezox

    After buying my SP101 3 months ago, I bought a couple of cans of Eezox to keep them clean and lubricated. After shooting only about 300+ rds. of various kinds of bullets, both in .38 Spec. and .357, my bore and cylinder is sparking clean! Have shot both lead and copper jacketed bullets. All I do is spray it on...let it set a bit...and bronze brush the bores. No problems...no worries .

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