heat. now this being a gun try a hair dryer on high for a bit to warm the screw and its mating hole. (i normally use a torch, but thats on the @*#&$@*&$ CAR, NOT A FINE PIECE OF EQUIPMENT).

They may have used loc-tte (not sure why but is possible) and heat will often break that free too.
then again, i could be wrong (thats the lawyer line)

Someone on another board said to use a torch and I almost fainted. LOL! I'll take it to a smith before I take a torch to my baby! I'm going to try some BreakFree on it overnight and see if that loosens it. After that, I'll see if I can find a hairdryer to use. Thanks!

Using an old-fashion (massive copper tip) soldering iron works too, if you're like my wife and don't have a hair dryer.
Hold the well-heated tip of the iron to the screw (and don't touch anything else), and, after a few minutes, the screw should be loose enough to remove.
The heated screw will expand, then contract. That loosens it.

Another thing that works pretty well (assuming no Locktite):
You'll need a strong screwdriver that exactly fits the screw's slot.
Put the action (no stock!) into a padded vise. Put the screwdriver into the screw's slot and hold it down very tightly. Hit the top of the screwdriver's handle with a hammer, using moderate force. Now the screw should unscrew pretty easily.
The hammer blow breaks loose any metal-to-metal "stiction," which allows the screw to turn.

One more:
Apply Kroil to the screw (action out of the stock—Kroil ruins wood). Let it soak in for a couple of days. Maybe even apply more Kroil, and let it soak some more. Now try the screw.
Kroil "creeps" into tiny crevices and lubricates. It also loosens rust, if there is any. Be sure to clean all of the Kroil off, when you're done!

Loctite is a possibility. Metal or aluminum screw? My advice is get a gunsmithing screwdriver set. Household/backyard mechanic screwdrivers are no good for gunsmithing work....they were not designed for it. More advice? Set your srewdriver in the screw slot and tap it with a brass, or small ball peen hammer two or three times, then back it out. Forget the heat.

Originally Posted by Ram Rod

Loctite is a possibility. Metal or aluminum screw? My advice is get a gunsmithing screwdriver set. Household/backyard mechanic screwdrivers are no good for gunsmithing work....they were not designed for it. More advice? Set your srewdriver in the screw slot and tap it with a brass, or small ball peen hammer two or three times, then back it out. Forget the heat.

It looks like the screws are aluminum, but I could be wrong. The rifle is a Rem 700 Police. Don't know if that info helps with that.

I've got BreakFree soaking on it right now, I put it on before I went to bed last night and am letting it sit until this evening. I'll give it a try then. After that I'll start running through the list of other suggestions.

Oh, I had a set of gunsmithing tools, obviously not the greatest set. I broke a good bit of the bits for the thing. And that was just working on a 10/22 that wasn't misbehaving.

I'm not sure that BreakFree penetrates all that well.
Kroil is specifically formulated to penetrate, and that's all it does.

I got it! That little sucker popped off this evening. The BreakFree apparently got down in there. The rifle now has a scope on it and it's ready for it's maiden trip to the range. Thanks for the help, guys!

Congrats.

Any pics of this rifle with its spiffy new scope? Perhaps with the range report to follow the trip to the range!?

Originally Posted by Psycho-82

Any pics of this rifle with its spiffy new scope? Perhaps with the range report to follow the trip to the range!?

Oh, definetly! The scope on it right now sucks, it is just in place really so I can shoot it until I've finished paying for the rifle and save up for possibly a Zeiss. I'm sure the current scope will be useless after the first range trip. But I want to get a one piece mount with rings attached (probably DNZ) and I'll probably end up with Zeiss on top.

Looking good!

You might be surprised at how long even a cheap scope will last. The zero could wander a bit if you zoom it and shoot groups at different settings, but if you pick a power setting and leave it there, I've seen a few shoot decently and last a good long time. Then again, it might go to poop on shot #2.

If you want to try this, I'd suggest using a power in the middle of the zoom range; I've always used 6x for most general shooting. Most less-expensive scopes get a bit blurry and dark at the higher powers.

Good luck!

Very nice SL. I am wanting a EBR and will probably end up with a Rock River.

I did not see it in the thread but what caliber did you get?

Originally Posted by buck32

I did not see it in the thread but what caliber did you get?

Oh, she's a .308.

Very nice! That has got to be one of the most accurate calibers I have ever shot. I bought my wife a Browning BLR in .308 that is a real shooter. Years latter I bought a Remington SS Mtn Rifle in 25-06 and that thing will shoot half dollar size groups at 100 yards.

Enjoy and give us a range report when you get it to the range.