I thought choke tubes were only supposed to be used with shot - not slugs. I don't think a constriction in the end of the barrel would do nice things when the slug gets to it.

Perhaps someone more knowledgeable will jump in?

Originally Posted by kev74

I thought choke tubes were only supposed to be used with shot - not slugs. I don't think a constriction in the end of the barrel would do nice things when the slug gets to it.

That's what I thought as well.

-Jeff-

You need to get a slug barrel (it is rifled). Hastings usually makes one for most shotguns.

I don't know what kind of gun you have, but you should be able to find a rifled choke insert that would then allow you to shoot sabot slugs - more accurate.

If not, the modified should be OK - not sure about the full. Just don't shoot it without a choke insert or you may booger the threads up that hold the inserts.

Or, you can buy a fully rifled barrel (~$200) that will give you a good rear sight and make it a legitimate 100 yard rifle. I bought one for my 20 gauge Remington 870, and it shoots dead-on at 50 yards, and drops 3" at 100 yards. Not too bad for something that packs such a serious wallop.

Originally Posted by Bisley

I don't know what kind of gun you have, but you should be able to find a rifled choke insert that would then allow you to shoot sabot slugs - more accurate.

If not, the modified should be OK - not sure about the full. Just don't shoot it without a choke insert or you may booger the threads up that hold the inserts.

Or, you can buy a fully rifled barrel (~$200) that will give you a good rear sight and make it a legitimate 100 yard rifle. I bought one for my 20 gauge Remington 870, and it shoots dead-on at 50 yards, and drops 3" at 100 yards. Not too bad for something that packs such a serious wallop.

You can try the chokes mentioned.....but I would still get a rifled barrel. For deer hunting.....you definitely want 100 yard accuracy, and the only way to get that is the rifled barrel.

http://www.randywakeman.com/Choke%20...el%20Specs.htm

Check the diameter of your slugs against the diameter of the choke.

Shooting a slug that rattles around in the bore then slams into a constriction would not be a good idea.

Modified or IC are the tightest you want to go i believe., but as suggested. Rifling makes all the fidderence.

First of all not all slug barrels are rifled - there are smooth bore slug barrels.

If you do not want to purchase a rifled slug barrel and you have interchangeable screw in chokes then I recommend the improved cylinder choke. You can try the modified and see which of the 2 are more accurate but I don't recommend using a full choke. The full choke may throw the accuracy of the shot off by the slug hitting it on the way out of the barrel. Back in the old days a slug would have taken out the full choke barrel but the slugs of today are smaller in diameter and much softer.

Do not use a sabot slug in a smooth bore barrel. Sabot slugs are made for rifled slug barrels. Use a plain jane (Forster) slug or a rifled slug in your smooth bore. The smooth bore should be accurate out to 40 - 50 yds but I have taken deer out to 70 yds with no problem.

IMO the rifled slugs are a gimmick and the plain jane slugs shoot just as accurate.

Enjoy

You are not going to damage a steel barrel with a lead slug. The steel is much harder. However, IC is usually recommended if you are going to use a screw-in choke. The sabot slugs are for rifled slug barrels and not the smooth bore ones and slugs are made for smooth bore barrels. Use the correct type slug with barrel you choose. It will be much more accurate.