Used to use gunscrubber and RemOil. I have since moved to Breakfree CLP and Remoil, and now pretty much just use Breakfree exclusively.

On another Beretta site, some people were claiming that GUnscrubber was messing up their Bruniton finish on their Berettas. So, I was using it on everything but Berettas, but then pretty much just gave up on it altogether.

The Breakfree seems to work well enough. I do usually take a toothbrush and re-oil the rails about 1x a month on all of my guns, though.

Anyone else wanna jump in on this topic?

I use gunscrubber to thoroughly clean my gun after a field strip. I then re-lube my rails with a few drops of break free.

When I am going to wipe the gun down after just a couple of outings and not do a field strip, I usually wipe the pistol down on the outside wit a little bit of rem oil. I then usually use a q-tip with some hops #9 solvent to clean the breech face.

Also when doing either a field strip or just a basic wipe down, I always clean my barrell. I use a rod and some cleaning swabs soaked in Hoppes #9 cleaning solvent to clear out the barrell of deposits.

Hope that helps!

Breakfree CLP! It not the newest or the most expensive cleaner I have tried but it is the best.

Originally Posted by Blackhawk

Breakfree CLP! It not the newest or the most expensive cleaner I have tried but it is the best.

That's all that I have been using, seems like great stuff.

I use Hoppes Elite solvent and boresnakes. Does the trick for me. Lubrication consists of Corrosion X oil and TW25B grease depending on the application.

Hoppes #9
Brake Cleaner
Mobil 1 for lube.

Works on everything

AFS

Just one question- yesterday I downloaded and read some of the manual for the Beretta 90two. The manual recomended cleaning the barrel with a brush/solvent/patches, and then oiling the barrel by running a patch soaked in Beretta oil down the barrel. Is this an important step? I assume it it 'cause it's in the manual, however I haven't noticed such recomendations in the manuals for the other pistols I have access to.

L J

if you do run an oiled patch down the barrel before storing the gun make VERY sure you run a dry patch down it before shooting it. Get that oil OUT!!!

AFS

I used oil for years and continually had to watch for rust. I have changed to stainless guns as I can. On all my stainless guns I use Eezox, which I clean with and let dry. It works great on my CCW. It is a dry lubricant that smells good and no oil to get on clothing. Think most people that haven't tried it would be supprised if they used it. I know I was. :-D

Breakfree CLP on all the handguns...Mobil 1 on the Ak (sometimes).

The cleanest I've ever been able to get my guns is with a solvent to get the big hunks and loosen things up fairly well, then use around 100psi with my air hose and blast everything away. This leaves a dry firearm, ready for what ever lube I feel like using at the time... Overall, I like CLP. I dose the gun good, let it set a few, then blast it with air again... Then a little lube in the needful areas...

The toothbrush is my friend... 8)

Well, I'm an oldtimer and a hardheaded cuss. I've been using Hoppe's #9 and Three-In-One oil for fifty years now, and still found nothing that cleans better nor protects better.

For degreasing, commercial lacquer thinner.

Bob Wright

:-D I shoot a lot of reloads so my guns can get real dirty with lead and all. I take a brass brush with some Blue wonder on it and scrub it out real good and let it soak for about 15 mintues. I'll run a patch through and then I do the same thing over with Hoppe's #9. Let sit a few and start running patches till they come out clean. Then I oil up the snake and run it through a couple of times. Over kill, you bet I like to play with my guns.
After all this if I still have some leading in the barrel, I'll do it all over.

Mr. Baldy,

I've found those lead removal cloths to be a great help. After drying the bore (after using Hoppe's #9), I cut a patch-size square of this material and run it up and down the bore several passes, using a proper sized jag tip. After a minute or two, follow up with clean dry patch, then oil.

Bob Wright

I use Hoppes #9 and a toothbrush all over. Then Hoppes Gun Oil. It was all part of a $7 cleaning kit. I've also rinsed the whole gun in Simple Green. I tried WD-40 too. I now have Autozone Brake Parts Cleaner to flush the gunk out after I scrub it all loose with Hoppes #9. I hate scrubbing stuff then leaving all that crap in hard-to-get areas in the frame.

Originally Posted by AirForceShooter

if you do run an oiled patch down the barrel before storing the gun make VERY sure you run a dry patch down it before shooting it. Get that oil OUT!!!

AFS

Why?

I use only a light coat of oil deposited by a patch wrapped around the jag of proper caliber, and lightly oil the chambers. Since I use straight taper cartridges, the amount of oil doesn't hurt anything in the chamber area nor do I use enough to risk bulging the barrel.

A light coat of oil hurts nothing unless using bottleneck cartridges in revolver chambers, which will result in case set-back.

Bob Wright

:-D Thanks for the information Bob but where do you get those patches at?? I never heard of them.
Propellerhead I use brake fluid some times my self. Just be sure you use the Non-Chlorinated type as chorine can have a bad effect on plastics and teflon. It will cause it to gall.

I know there are shortcuts - buying basically the same chemical - just one that's for another use - in order to save money.

But, after spending so much money on my guns, I'd rather just buy the right thing

Mr. Baldy

There are two that I know of, one is by RIG products, the other by Birchwood-Casey. Both are found at my gun shop in Memphis, and I think Brownells and Midway carries them. They work good for bores, but will remove blueing. I am told they work well on the exterior surfaces of stainless steel. I have all blue guns and use these in the bore and sometimes in the chambers. Have for several years now. They really pull gunk out of the barrel. Even after cleaning with Hoppe's they get a lot of carbon out that's left behind.

Bob Wright

P.S. These are sold in plactic envelopes much like the silicone cloths. They are usually placed with tese cloths and look very similar in appearence.

:-D I'll be looking them up later this evening. A fellow told about some paste stuff that you can get there too. I got to find the note where I wrote it down. The stuff he was talking about was at midway also.

Thanks Again Bob..

Hey Bob I found one kind of patch at Brownells. It was the Birchwood-Casey. What do you think of JB Paste & Kano Kroil?? I am like you, I am kind of set in my ways but I though what the heck I would try some things a little different. That's how I got to useing Blue Wonder. Which buy the way does a fair job of bluing a gun. I don't know how long it will last but I just did a J-frame S&W for a guy who forgot it was under the front seat of his truck for three years. Turned what was a $50. gun back into about a $150-$200 gun. For now anyway. :-D

Mr. Baldy,

I've never used either of the two products you mentioned.

Several years ago a friend of min tried using JB paste on cast bullets to lap the bore of a new revolver. This was done by using an un-lubed cast bullet and applying the JB paste by hand, actually by finger. These were loaded and fired almost immediately lest the compound contaminate the powder. I think the formula was to fire twelve of these bullets, wipe the bore clean, then fire twelve more until thirty-six bullets had been fired. They may have finished up with some jacketed bullets. Then, after a good cleaning, the bore was said to be mirror bright.

I never tried this myself, but this was reported by my friend, Tommy Russell in the Ruger Collectors Ass'n. publication. Tommy was at that time orchestrating the T.S.A.B. Ruger Bisley, a customized Bisley. Tommy had done some work on slicking up the actions and had sent the guns to Hamilton Bowen for finishing. Grips were by Roy Fishpaw. The result was a very handsome and accurate package.

I never cared for the Bisley but gave Tommy a .45 Super Blackhawk for similar treatment. I did not go with the lapped bore, though.

Bob Wright

I make my own, 1 part synthetic motor oil, 1 part transmission fluid, 1 part Marvel oil, 1 part mineral spirits. I use this to clean and lube. I had the motor oil and tranny fluid on hand purchased the Marvel oil and mineral spirits.
It has worked very well for revolver, pistol, rifle and shotgun so far.