Technically the gun functions per original design but fir something that costs that much and is marketed as 'the best',it isn't right.They may correct it if you call them and it's still in wrranty,a call will cure that up.If they will,don't be surprised if it comes back better but still goofy.I've followed quite a few sent back and only be 1/2 fixed or a new problem,from what I see they just drop in the extractor and ship it,if they can't get it out the door working I have marginal faith that maybe only 1 or 2 people there know enough or care enough to really build a 1911 beyond assembling parts.

What caliber and barrel length?A shortie should have an extended ejector so the tuning of it could be the main issue.The extractor tension,profile and clocking (twisting in the hole) can cause or aggrevate it.Slide speed and port shape/brass bouncing off it can do it also but not as common on fullsize ports like they use.

.45, 4"

If it can be warranteed call them to discuss it and a repair timeframe,free is better than paying someone or learning on your carry piece.

Look at the ejector,it should be extended and have an extension on the top sticking in the magwell.Look at the cut at the tip,normally the point will be 1/4-1/2 way from the top.The higher the point the more horizontal the brass is kicked,the lower it is the more the brass kicks up.You also have to remember the barrel links up and down so the brass is on the low side of the breechface for ejection,if you have a good wear pattern the bottom of the pattern.Once you know where the brass sits for this,remove the slide and position a piece of brass correctly and look down the ejector cut of the slide.You want to verify you are getting a good smack on the brass and not clipping the edge,breechfaces can be off in the shoulder cuts and it isn't uncommon to see an ejector that isn't wide enough on the inboard side to utilize the full slide cut.

You have to check the extractor no matter what.Tension is as simple as sliding a loaded round into position and roll the slide around with your wrist,the roound should not fall out without a good shaking but not so tight it really holds on and won't let go.Tight usually causes feed jambs.While the case is in position and back against the breechface,hold it to light so you can tell if the tip of the Ext isn't touching the case bevel,big problem waiting to happen.

Adjusting the tension is just a metter of pulling the ext 1/2 way out and pressuring it to add more curve or straighten it and retrying.There is a guage to measure weight but there's a pretty lenient operating range.If it is loose and won't tighten up,the surface directly behind the rim notch is bottoming in the slideand wasn't clearanced enough.

Looking at the ext from the left as it sits in the gun,the bottom 1/3 of the rim cut should be bevelled and radiused to help the case slide up in there.Also,the front wall of the cut should be radiused for about the bottom 1/4,slightly lower than the feed cut.This helps case rollout because there isn't a square corner to hold the case longer.

Clocking is what causes irratic ejection because the ext is turning in the tunnel,causing the contact point of the ext to change on the brass,which causes the case to eject in a different path scattering brass all over the place.The only cure for this is fit an oversize firing pin block.Just about everyone fits there's so it's a slip fit for ease of teardown and assembly,but they take too much off and it doesn't trap the ext cut enough to prevent rotating.If you look at the back of the slide,the ext flat will look crooked off the slide's edge if it's clocking.

Port size and shape can come into play but if the mouth of your cases aren't getting bent or dings in the upper 1/2 of the casewall,you're good there.

If any typos happen or just general confusion,let me know and I'll clear it up whn I get home later.

My Glock used to do that but quit after I stopped using Wolf ammunition. I've never understood it.

Originally Posted by ajlandis

...I don't dare shoot the gun without glasses...

Well, you shouldn't anyway.
When you shoot a pistol, eye protection is just as important as ear protection.

BTW: rex's advice on this subject is excellent.

I get hit in the head too, but it's because I shoot with my left eye and right hand.

Originally Posted by Holly

I get hit in the head too, but it's because I shoot with my left eye and right hand.

Really? Who hits you in the head for shooting that way?



On a serious note, I'm left eye dominant and right handed (Cross dominant) and can't remember the last time I've had a piece of brass hit me that hasn't been bounced back off of something else.

Originally Posted by Steve M1911A1

Well, you shouldn't anyway.
When you shoot a pistol, eye protection is just as important as ear protection.

BTW: rex's advice on this subject is excellent.

I 2nd that... Safety first...

The glasses comment was a sarcastic way of illustrating the point that I have objects flying at my face on a regular basis when shooting this pistol. I'm familiar with safety equipment, as I wear earplugs and glasses 50-60 hours a week, as well as when I shoot.

Lol!! I would hate to have that problem. i myself own a glock 23 and eclipse pro 2 an would not be able to handle rounds ejecting straight into my face. i would definitely contact the manufacture.

It doesn't hit me on every shot. Maybe once every mag or two. It definitely adds another element into the shooting experience. A guy had once asked me to set up a tactical course on my property. I told him I'd let him shoot on my range, and at the same time I'd take random shots at him with a paintball gun from behind. I figured it would be a good test of his shooting instincts/ training if he was anticipating being smacked with a paintball at any given time. He never took me up on the offer. At any rate, shooting this gun reminded me of that offer. It really doesn't hurt, it's just an unpleasant surprise that stays in the back of my mind while I'm trying to focus on my form.
Rex, when I get back in town, I'll check out all that you've mentioned and report what I find. Thanks much.

No prob man,been there and had to deal with the distractions mid match.I strive for a nice pile of brass about 4' away without bouncing,of course it's only general.On occasion you subconsciensely limp it so that gets ignored,but if there's a so called pattern to it there's a little tuning to be done.I believe HK is about the best out of the box,spew lead as you can afford gun there is,but they choke on occasion.Man made,the level of pride and knowledge dictates the quality but there is still human influence,who flung poo?The real question comes down to is it a malfunction,or just a stoppage.The former happens way too often in today's world,the latter is Murphy saying hello again and keeping us on our toes testing our instincts.TRB or snatch out the BUG.

Keep in touch after you get home,it's something you don't need to put up with since it isn't a GI spec piece.

Before you send it back for work, try using a different brand of ammo.

Kimber is gonna ask you what type ammo you're shooting anyways.

Occasionally helps.A pic of the ejector from the side to see the profile of the tip shape would be cool.The extractor is causing the bean hits but it sounds like the ejector could use a slight adjustment also,that's why I'd like to see it.What shape the brass is in and what and where any dings may be is helpfull.

I didn't read all the responses (someone might have already said it), but try a different type of ammo.

Okay, finally got some home time to check this info out. I'm going to try to reply to each issue independently so that I can give you as good a picture that I can, to make sure that I'm looking at the right stuff. I'll post a few different times as time here allows me. I used my DW CBOB for comparison. The geometry of the 4.25" barrel should be close to the SC, and it runs very well.
First, the ejector: The point is roughly twice as tall as it is wide. It does fill the cut-out reasonably well, but there is a bit of gap between the ejector and the inside of the cut. CBOB is much tighter fit and the point is a slight bit wider than it is tall. It's about half the size of the kimber. The SC ejector seems to sit further away from the center of the breech face. On top of that, the wear pattern is definitely on the lower section of the ejector. That point of obvious dominant contact is roughly on a 45 degree angle from the firing pin. However, the top half of the ejector shows little, if any wear, even though it appears to be square to the breech face. The CBOB's appears to have a slight angle with the top being more forward than the bottom. The impact point seems to be at a distance twice as much to the side as to the bottom.
Another area of concern is the part of the slide just forward of the breech face, opposite the ejection port (might this be the 'shoulder cut' you were referring to?). There is a significant wear pattern from the case rims that does not exist on my other 1911's. It is obvious to me that the rims are rubbing pretty hard while being stripped from the mag and chambered. It also seems that when ejected, they are scraping off the side of the slide when departing from the breech face. The wear is a defined vertical line on a slightly rearward angle from the mag to the breech. Then there is a broader horizontal 'brush stroke' of wear at a level just below the firing pin.
As for tension on the extractor the SC is pretty snug. Takes quite a shake to get a round to drop from it's grip. The CBOB holds it secure, but a quick shake frees it. The SC does not have any brass wear on the extractor side of the slide. But the extractor itself shows, what I would consider, heavy wear on the inside of the notch. Not from the front of case rims being ejected, but from the edges of the rims rubbing. There is also some wear on the outside, forward part of the claw from where it has been contacting the body of the cases while chambered.
I'm going to take some pictures. As soon as my wife gets done being pissed at me, I'll ask her to help me post them. It'll show much better than I can describe it.

I hope she isn't still mad at you now,that's definately not good.I was hoping for pics,it is hard to describe things some times.I have to run now but I'll check back later when I get home,the Harley is begging to go for a good hard run.

The face of the ejector is what matters, and the difference is very small.

There's nothing wrong with the weapon.

The best solution is 300 rounds a week for a year and a half.

Good luck.

Not necesarilly.It sounds like the extractor is a bit tight,lenient on a 5" but not a shorty.The ejector has a big factor but if it's cut right other factors clue in.Springing, slide speed,grip,it's an elimination process.

300 rounds a week for a year and a half. 23,400 rounds seems like a bit much to break in a $1300 pistol. Ran another 100 through it yesterday. Now I'm having another problem. The first round through the mag isn't wanting to feed, and sometimes the second round, as well. I can take the mag and put it in with the slide locked open. Hit the mag release and it feeds the round halfway into the chamber. Does it with most of the mags I've got. The ones that do allow it to go to battery, still seem like there is a hesitation halfway through the slide drop. However, if I hold the mag up tight into the magwell while I hit the slide release, the rounds feed fine. All of these mags feed fine in three other 1911's. I wonder if the combination of too tight of an extractor is coupling with a sloppy mag catch to cause this problem. I was told that kimber uses an mim extractor, and that tensioning it is very difficult. Is that true? I'm not wanting to change anything until I can get photos posted to show the current conditions. And the wife is in a better mood, but I won't be back in town for a couple days. Fwiw, the gun does shoot very tight groups. At least it has that going for it.

Originally Posted by ajlandis

300 rounds a week for a year and a half. 23,400 rounds seems like a bit much to break in a $1300 pistol. Ran another 100 through it yesterday. Now I'm having another problem. The first round through the mag isn't wanting to feed, and sometimes the second round, as well. I can take the mag and put it in with the slide locked open. Hit the mag release and it feeds the round halfway into the chamber. Does it with most of the mags I've got. The ones that do allow it to go to battery, still seem like there is a hesitation halfway through the slide drop. However, if I hold the mag up tight into the magwell while I hit the slide release, the rounds feed fine. All of these mags feed fine in three other 1911's. I wonder if the combination of too tight of an extractor is coupling with a sloppy mag catch to cause this problem. I was told that kimber uses an mim extractor, and that tensioning it is very difficult. Is that true? I'm not wanting to change anything until I can get photos posted to show the current conditions. And the wife is in a better mood, but I won't be back in town for a couple days. Fwiw, the gun does shoot very tight groups. At least it has that going for it.

I'd say no regarding the extractor.

Stop trying to find a magical solution to make this gun run, call Kimber, send it in for warranty service, when it comes back, get rid of it and get something else.

Originally Posted by ajlandis

300 rounds a week for a year and a half. 23,400 rounds seems like a bit much to break in a $1300 pistol.

It's to break in the shooter, not the weapon. The weapon is fine.

Originally Posted by Jammersix

It's to break in the shooter, not the weapon. The weapon is fine.

Doubtful.

Originally Posted by VAMarine

Stop trying to find a magical solution to make this gun run, call Kimber, send it in for warranty service, when it comes back, get rid of it and get something else.

With all due respect, I'd rather try to work this out without having to send it back. I'm a very curious sort when it comes to mechanics. I believe it is kimber's responsibility, but I would really like to use this as an opportunity to learn the nuances of how all the little things add up to work together, and what to look for when they don't. I'm not looking for a magical solution. I just want to learn what is going wrong and why. The info that Rex has given me so far has been enlightening, and I'd like to see it through. The education is more important to me than just getting it fixed. I see it as something that will come in handy for years down the road. If this is a subject that the mods would prefer not to have discussed on the site, I'll respectfully drop it. I'm not looking to upset anyone. I just want to understand my guns better.