300 rounds a week for a year and a half. 23,400 rounds seems like a bit much to break in a $1300 pistol. Ran another 100 through it yesterday. Now I'm having another problem. The first round through the mag isn't wanting to feed, and sometimes the second round, as well. I can take the mag and put it in with the slide locked open. Hit the mag release and it feeds the round halfway into the chamber. Does it with most of the mags I've got. The ones that do allow it to go to battery, still seem like there is a hesitation halfway through the slide drop. However, if I hold the mag up tight into the magwell while I hit the slide release, the rounds feed fine. All of these mags feed fine in three other 1911's. I wonder if the combination of too tight of an extractor is coupling with a sloppy mag catch to cause this problem. I was told that kimber uses an mim extractor, and that tensioning it is very difficult. Is that true? I'm not wanting to change anything until I can get photos posted to show the current conditions. And the wife is in a better mood, but I won't be back in town for a couple days. Fwiw, the gun does shoot very tight groups. At least it has that going for it.
There's nothing wrong with the topic, but come up with a $$$ amount that you're willing to spend to fix this gun yourself when Kimber should be fixing it for free.
Been there done that and what I ended up spending on trying to fix & test two of them, I could have bought a Wilson Combat or Ed Brown.
The dollar amount will be the cost of a 6 inch file.
All that has to be done is to file the end of the ejector so, rather than being square, it is slightly angled to the right (towards the ejection port.) The angle needed is not large.
If one is careful, and doesn't take a lot off at once, there is plenty of material on the ejector to experiment with angles.
This is a matter of preference-- as long as the weapon ejects, it is functioning properly.
The most this exercise could cost is the price of a new, gunsmith-installed ejector.
get one of these from EGW to fix that issue. \
What kind of magazines are you using?
As for the extractor, it is not MIM and it is not hard to tension, BUT re-tensioning an extractor is probably a temporary fix. Odds are it will be off again later. Better to replace it now but before you do that, make sure you remove the extractor and get any gunk out of there. Tips and tricks on tensioning it etc. have all ready been listed, but make sure it's clean in there. About how many rounds do you have through the gun?
Kimber 4" springs often go fast (Kimber suggests replacing every 800 rds), go ahead and get a couple new ones from Wolf, or while you're ordering from EGW, get one of their .25" guide rod assys with the flat spring and some spares of those.
Also, what kind of ammo are you shooting?
Jammersix has the most likely cure for the original problem but pics really help.
VA is spot on for the new one.The EGW parts are top notch,but you may have to masage it in.The right side was just a little large to get in my Colt frame but a few swipes with a stone on the high spots cured it.
Low setting mags happen,but look that the front of the mag baseplate isn't bottoming on the frame causing it.Another issue that popped up on Kimbers was a shallow frame feedramp.The very bottom of the ramp cut should be about even with the bottom of the hole of the slidestop right next to it.This was partially the reason George at EGW made the mag catch that holds mags .020" higher.
Jerry Kunhausen has 2 books on the 1911 that are excellent.The first is operation,specs and how a 1911A1 should be fit to original spec,the second goes more into performance specs and fitting but you have to remember this is kind of 'old school' in some areas.An example is peening the rails and squeezing the slide to tighten up the fit,today welding and recutting the frame rails is prefered.I think anyone that wants to know or work on a 1911 should start with these 2 books.
That used to happen to me occasionally. A guy at the range asked me if I was rotating my wrist to soak up recoil. He told me to concentrate on my hold, using a "push-pull", with about 60% of my grip from my "weak hand" -- concentrate on keeping the pistol straight, don't rotate.
I never sent a gun back . Never repaired anything, concentrated on my grip -- you know, not a "death grip", not attempting to "strangle" the pistol, but a good firm grip with a push-pull.
It worked. I haven't been hit in the head, or had an empty go down my top in years.
Anyway, that's what worked for me.
I think she may be right.
(As I've said before, I believe that these things are mostly matters of technique, more than they are matters of hardware.)
300 rounds a week for a year and a half.