Buck Mark - Inital cleaning or Oiling required?

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    1. #1
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      Buck Mark - Inital cleaning or Oiling required?

      I bought a Browning Buck mark on Saturday. I brought it home today (IL, 3 day waiting period). I'm new to shooting and I just finished a 2 hours session with an instructor. We didn't fire the pistol at all but at some point the Range master (not the instructor) had suggested that I do an initial oiling before I do fire the Buck Mark.

      Is this necessary and then the next question would be how do I oil it properly? I'll search YouTube on the 'how' question but most import is the should I? While I'm creating this post I figure I should ask of any cleaning required?

      I should note that this particular pistol was on display (behind glass of course but those with the proper credentials could handle it). It seemed that they only had one of each buck mark (all displayed) so I had the choice of finding a different dealer or taking one from the display case. I choice just to get the one I have as it seems perfectly fine. No marks or blemishes. I hope this wasn't some rookie mistake.

      Thanks for any input.

    2. #2
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      VAMarine's Avatar
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      This is my typical answer, don't be offended...


      Read your instruction manual. The info you seek should be on Pgs 11&12, and carries over into pages 21-23.


      This isn't said to make anyone look ignorant or stupid or anything, but I think it is better for you (and others) in the long run to be able to find information from the manufacturer rather than a bunch of strangers on the internet etc. and not be "spoon-fed" information that you are all ready in possession of via the owners manual.

    3. #3
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      Very solid advice VaMarine, but might also be a good idea to mention not all advice given on line is good advice. Read and learn from more than just one place so you cal judge what is good. Remember free advice is often worth just what you paid for it.

    4. #4
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      Quote Originally Posted by VAMarine View Post
      This is my typical answer, don't be offended...


      Read your instruction manual. The info you seek should be on Pgs 11&12, and carries over into pages 21-23.


      This isn't said to make anyone look ignorant or stupid or anything, but I think it is better for you (and others) in the long run to be able to find information from the manufacturer rather than a bunch of strangers on the internet etc. and not be "spoon-fed" information that you are all ready in possession of via the owners manual.
      I must say; interesting advice. First, I understand your suggestion. It makes sense and is a bit obvious. I had consulted the instruction manual and it does say to do an initial cleaning but in my opinion, it's rather vague and unclear. It says to do an initial cleaning and loosely interpreted, it suggests using a light gun oil. Great. Is it necessary? What is the goal? Removal of "storage" oil or a "refresh" of the existing oil? (YouTube was not much help here).

      Abut information from the manufacturer, I've found that 95% of the time while the manufacture's information is adequate, it's on the "safe side;" the community of users much more know the ins and outs of "it" because they are actively participating in using "it" (whatever it is).

      On a Motorcycle forum that I am a very active participate in, we leverage our community knowledge of the product in order to provide more direct, real-life-experience-based answers. This generally deviates from what is in the owner's manual.

    5. #5
      Senior Member Steve M1911A1's Avatar
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      Most new guns are shipped out thinly coated with rust-inhibiting grease. This grease is sticky and waxy, and will trap dirt and slow down the pistol's action.
      That's why you should carefully clean a new gun.
      After cleaning it, it will need to be lubricated lightly. Some people prefer to use a grease-type lubricant (much different from the initial anti-rust coating) on semi-auto pistols, while others prefer to use oil.
      I prefer oil, but there really is little difference if the gun is well maintained.

      So now you know why your new pistol needs a good cleaning, and also why it will require lubrication when the cleaning is complete.

      And by the way, the manual which came with my 1965, 350cc Jawa bike was absolutely complete and completely accurate, and was there to guide me through everything from removing carbon build-up from the cylinder heads (it was a 2-stroke), through complete lubrication, all the way to how to change a tire.
      And there were times when I felt blessed to have that book.

    6. #6
      Senior Member chessail77's Avatar
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      Always Clean, check and Lubricate any firearm that is new to you, both new and used .....JJ

    7. #7
      Member DanP_from_AZ's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by jawzx01 View Post
      I bought a Browning Buck mark on Saturday . . . Thanks for any input.
      Congratulations on you getting your Buck Mark. Which model ? All models are "considered equal for accuracy" due to the action, but with different cosmetics.

      Ruger "Marks" and the 22/45 are, of course, fine weapons, but you are now a full-fledged member of the Buck Mark cult.

      Here is the link to Rimfire Central, Browning sub-forum. Many knowledgeable members. "Chim" is the acknowledged guru.
      Be sure to read the sticky "Buck Mark Starter Thread" at the top. A wealth of Buck Mark info and lore.

      Browning - RimfireCentral.com Forums

      The questions on cleaning/lubricating a new gun "were answered above", but I'll still throw in my experience.

      My local gun store smith recommended breaking it in with 100 rounds of CCI Stingers (higher velocity, more positive working of the action).
      Then CCI Blazers for general target/plinking "cheap ammo" with decent accuracy. They sell it for $20/brick (500 rounds) plus tax.
      I also have had good luck with Federal Value Pack. 550 rounds, loose in the carton. $20 plus tax at WalMart.

      I bought my gun, the Buck Mark FLD Plus, with rosewood laminated grips, last Nov. After searching/waiting for months.
      I've added a cheap Chinese red/green multiple-recticule dot sight. It's branded Truglo. Mounted on a Browning rail. Total less than $100.
      Since this picture, the sight has been moved one notch forward. Now the barrel, rail, and sight remove in a unit for cleaning. Leaving the "zero" intact.

      Never had a .22 LR gun before. Now this is for monthly Prescott Sportsmans' Club "600 Rimfire Bullseye Match". Run on Camp Perry National rules.
      I have five mags. Loaded with five rounds each for "the match" or practice.
      I spray Rem oil "with teflon" on a Q-tip and "brush" the slide rails and recoil guide rod after the fourth mag (20 shots).
      How do I do ? Well, let's just say EVERYONE has 20-50 years head start on "bullseye practicing".
      The 10/9 ring "black" is 5.5 inch diameter. Ain't easy for me offhand at 25 yeards. I'm trying !

      Just my thoughts, as always, YMMV. In any case, you've got a great gun, and lots of fun ahead !

    8. #8
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      Quote Originally Posted by DanP_from_AZ View Post
      Congratulations on you getting your Buck Mark. Which model ? All models are "considered equal for accuracy" due to the action, but with different cosmetics.

      Ruger "Marks" and the 22/45 are, of course, fine weapons, but you are now a full-fledged member of the Buck Mark cult.

      Here is the link to Rimfire Central, Browning sub-forum. Many knowledgeable members. "Chim" is the acknowledged guru.
      Be sure to read the sticky "Buck Mark Starter Thread" at the top. A wealth of Buck Mark info and lore.

      Browning - RimfireCentral.com Forums

      The questions on cleaning/lubricating a new gun "were answered above", but I'll still throw in my experience.

      My local gun store smith recommended breaking it in with 100 rounds of CCI Stingers (higher velocity, more positive working of the action).
      Then CCI Blazers for general target/plinking "cheap ammo" with decent accuracy. They sell it for $20/brick (500 rounds) plus tax.
      I also have had good luck with Federal Value Pack. 550 rounds, loose in the carton. $20 plus tax at WalMart.

      I bought my gun, the Buck Mark FLD Plus, with rosewood laminated grips, last Nov. After searching/waiting for months.
      I've added a cheap Chinese red/green multiple-recticule dot sight. It's branded Truglo. Mounted on a Browning rail. Total less than $100.
      Since this picture, the sight has been moved one notch forward. Now the barrel, rail, and sight remove in a unit for cleaning. Leaving the "zero" intact.

      Never had a .22 LR gun before. Now this is for monthly Prescott Sportsmans' Club "600 Rimfire Bullseye Match". Run on Camp Perry National rules.
      I have five mags. Loaded with five rounds each for "the match" or practice.
      I spray Rem oil "with teflon" on a Q-tip and "brush" the slide rails and recoil guide rod after the fourth mag (20 shots).
      How do I do ? Well, let's just say EVERYONE has 20-50 years head start on "bullseye practicing".
      The 10/9 ring "black" is 5.5 inch diameter. Ain't easy for me offhand at 25 yeards. I'm trying !

      Just my thoughts, as always, YMMV. In any case, you've got a great gun, and lots of fun ahead !
      Hey -- I ended up getting a Standard UDX. I love it. In two months, I probably put 2000 rounds through it. It's great. Fun to shoot and more accurate than I am.

      When I first got the gun, I tried to get the CCI rounds you suggested. The store (Bass Pro) was out of them. I've since put 100 rounds of the stringers through the gun but the gun seems to cycle everything fairly well. A couple of mis-feeds, a few no-fires but for the most part, it cycles everything well. There is no particular ammo that I've bought that wouldn't cycle.

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