Buckmarks are great pistols. I have had mine for over 20 years and it still shoots great. A nice target pistol. Dry firing is pulling the trigger with out a round in the chamber. You can damage the fireing pin, so avoid it. Don't try to disasemble it, or you will have problems. You will also need a cleaning kit. Your dealer can help you in this regards. Try Buds Guns on the internet for prices. They ship freight paid to a gun dealer who will charge you a transfer fee, usually $20-$25. See which is the best deal for you.

I have been looking all over the Internet, talking to people, and have read the manual. Everyone seems to disagree on how to clean this gun.

1. The manual advises that you do NOT disassemble the gun at all, but clean it with action open. It tells you to clean the breach, the areas where the slide is, and the bore. It's very vague about cleaning the bore. There is no way to get a cleaning rod through the breach, so you have to use a "crown protector", and clean it from the front end "without touching the crown". This is almost impossible to do. I've done it anyway, trying to be careful, but I'm not sure....

2. I bought a "bore snake", and started pushing it through the breach end. I do this a few times, then still push an oiled swab through the front to fine clean and oil. The guy at the range said that "bore snakes" are a bad idea, and that a regular cleaning kit is fine, I just need a good rod guide (the plastic one in the kit is a joke). Did I just blow 20 bucks on a bore snake?

3. And finally, the guy at the gun shop says he takes his apart and only cleans from the breach end. He is very matter-of-fact about it, as if taking apart the Browning is really not a problem. I really am worried about taking it apart, and losing something, and Browning says "don't disassemble".

The internet is split 50/50 over taking it apart of not. No one seems to address the "crown" issues.

HELP!!!!!

I think the only problem I see with totally taking it down is the fact that, after a while, the top screws can get worn out from constantly removing them to take the gun down. The .22 LR is dirty ammo, so I would try to take it down as far as possible at least every two to three times I shot the gun. Maybe you could replace the top screws with Hex head screws so they last longer than the standard head screws. Just an opinion.

I use a Bore Snake on mine, along with cotton patches and Q-tips. A little Hoppe's oil, and I'm done. I've also been told that disassembly is often a problem, and notice that the manual does not recommend it, so I've gone by the manual.

BuckMarks are great guns.

Here is mine as I got it ready for optics



It is a very accurate gun.



Love shooting this gun.

Where did you get that rail?

And I've taken my Camper apart a few times. You need to in order to get the cheap ammo residue out of the nooks and crannies.

I did a lot of research and this one was the highest quality and it had an adjustible rear sight.

Call Tactical Solutions - : (866) 333-9901 = Browning Buck Mark Camper Stainless Steel URX MS Ultragrip RX Pro 5 1/2" - I spoke to Lon .

Hope this helps.

Nice gun.

Is that a Sure Shot by Sight Mark? Which model number as I cannot visually locate it?

Great gun by the way and your pictures have an awesome composition.

Thanks!

That is a Sure Shot - I don't see a model number - costs about $45

I've got a Buckmark Contour URX with the 7.25" barrel. I've pondered the cleaning of this gun, also. I don't like the fact that you're not supposed to take the thing completely down. I follow the instructions, though, and it seems to operate fine. I also occaisionally use Browning's Crud Cleaner for guns - it's a spray that works amazing on cleaning, but to me, it seems to do "too much of a good job", if you know what I mean, so I don't use it every time.

Cannon

Another fan; these are great shooting pistols. My brother has an older Challenger II that I have liked for so long that I recently tracked down a used late-'80s BM Standard slab-side. Given its age, I had to replace some springs and dealt with some light strikes, but with a new firing pin and springs, we're back in business. On bench rest, it's putting 1" groups at 50', which is about as well as I can shoot.

I have the standard grip on my Buckmark, there are a lot more grip options for this grip, but it is not quite as comfortable as the other grips for smaller hands like mine.
Here is some info that might help you.Really good wealth of information on Buckmarks. Chim is very good with them.
Welcome - chim - This is the Link

I've torn mine down after every trip to the range, use what I consider average (or possibly below average) mechanical skills, lots of bright light, and lots of patience. At first, I would waste time looking for the microscopic slip ring that always came off the back of the spring assembly until I wised up and began taking it apart inside a gallon plastic bag.

Of course, once I bought extra slip rings and hit on the plastic bag thing, I also figured out the original rod was perhaps overmilled at the ring seat, as nobody on Youtube addressed spending hours on their hands and knees working a grid until the slip ring was found (usually and perversely in my shirt pocket). Once I replaced the rod, I assembled it one time, crimped the ring and it has come off intact as the full assembly ever since.

If you do decide to field strip it, once you've removed the slide, recoil buffer and spring assembly the lower unit of the pistol is stripped enough to clean the barrel from the breech, anything that happens below that is definitely gunsmith territory. I use a double tipped hard swab with a dab of Rem oil to clean the magazine well if there is any visible debris and of course wipe the rails with both a wet and dry patch, then put half a dab of gun grease on each side. When I reassemble it, the upper slides get a full dab of grease each, as they are much higher and not exposed to dirt or dust. They will pick up powder residue and begin to slow after probably 500 rounds, but given the cheap bulk ammo I am using that is why I field strip it after every trip to the range where it gets fired.

I'm at the point now if we are shooting .22, it is going to be long range with the bolt action rifles, so here lately all the semi auto .22's stay home.

BTW, use Loctite blue thread compound when you put the top rail back on, as mentioned above the bolts are harder than the aluminum alloy seats and will wear over time. I began to have to snug the bolts after about 200 rounds, then began to use the compound. If you use it from day one, just a drop on the end of the thread as you want 3/4 of the rest of the bolt without compound. Too much compound will go everywhere, had a major malfunction which resulted in having to strip it down all over again and clean blue goop out of the ramp area.

Originally Posted by dondavis3

That is a Sure Shot - I don't see a model number - costs about $45

This sight is Chinese. With MANY different "brandings". Two styles with the same multiple recticles. One red only. One red/green.
The "Buck Mark brand" is red only. About $45. The picture below shows my "Truglo" red/green. About $65. Green works well outdoors.
On my gun for my club's monthly "almost NRA" bulleye matches. 60 rounds at 25 yards. Two go-rounds of slow fire, timed fire, rapid fire.
My rig's cost is about like a Ruger "Mark". WAY under serious shooters' multi-thousand dollar guns/sights. But big fun for the $$$.
I bought four additional magazines. Makes it easier on the firing line.

Originally Posted by berettatoter

I think the only problem I see with totally taking it down is the fact that, after a while, the top screws can get worn out from constantly removing them to take the gun down . . . Maybe you could replace the top screws with Hex head screws so they last longer than the standard head screws. Just an opinion.

My Buckmark was a year old last November. It came with hex head screws. Get GOOD hex keys.
Barrel screw is 7/64th inch. Sight rail screws 3/32th inch. I take the barrel off for cleaning from the breech end.
Leaving the sight rail attached to the barrel with its front screw. Screws WILL loosen. I blue Loctite the screws.
Permatex "Threadlocker Blue" is the exact same stuff. Readily available at auto parts stores.

I just "wipe-down" what else is accessible without further dissassembly. I've got several thousand rounds through the gun.
It likes CCI Blazer bricks. And Federal "Hi-Value" loose bulk. I shoot CCI Mini-Mags for matches. At about the same accuracy.

Here's my Buck Mark UDX Plus with Rosewood grips. Browning sight rail. Truglow red/green dot sight (Chinese). Buck Marks are "rare".
Checked Davidson's "Gallery of Guns" 'Net site every morning for more than five months. I WANTED a Rosewood gripped UDX.
A drawback is you are "stuck" with the factory grips with a "different" grip frame. But, laminated Rosewood is what I wanted.

One day they had five. I credit-carded the down payment right then. My local gun dealer's wife picked it up.
Davidson's warehouse is at our airport. I had the gun home by 1:30. My dealer is the lowest price of the 20 local shops.
He says working with "Gallery of Guns" is no problem. You do know the total price, tax and all, before choosing "your local shop".