My Bersa Firestorm .22 came with gunky sticky oil on it, undoubtedly to keep off corrosion in storage and shipping.. so did my new 9mm Thunder.. come to think of it, I've never taken a new gun out of the box and shot it.. always cleaned/lubed first..
Originally Posted by Todd
Just seemed the right thing to do, what with the oil all over the place. Oil collects powder dirt, and that alone will make a semiauto grind to a halt.
The thing with the thunder 380 is they are full of all kinds of gunk. The springs are really tight and they are a little finicky as to what ammo they use best. If you take them down and clean and re lube them well then for the first box or two run some hot ammo through them they tend to calm down a little.
Like most 380 weapons they are pretty small and that lends itself to more things you as the user can do wrong when firing them "limp wristing" is common in causing them to not function well as well as bigger man hands getting on things they don't need to.
The 380 can be a decent weapon for CD but with most of them there is an issue here and there. I personally think one is better off with a compact 9mm if the small gun is what the would be shooter wants most. They are built more solid and are a little bigger allowing for a more natural grip. A 380 is what people like my Dad would have called a belly gun or pocket pistol. The round has a good bit of snap for such a small round but I think that is mostly due to the compact size of the weapons that use it. A good grip it seems to me anyway is much more important with these weapons. I've fired many over the years and more often than not failures are caused by grip or the weapon just not liking the round that's in it.
Glad to hear your having better results wit the new one. Those Bersa's are pretty good but they need to be broken in with a little more patience it seems. They can be trusted though as well as any in their class once they are cleaned, lubed, and broken in properly. Also sometimes it takes getting a few different kinds of ammo before you'll find the round that works best. Mine did not like those flat point Winchester rounds but I had found an East European surplus ammo that worked real well. It was a round nose FMJ round that was a little hotter though too.
You may have this already taken care of, I have not read through this thread for a few days.
Originally Posted by wildcatbrownhound
But the problem sounds like the spring on the mag is to tight.
Many semi autos have feed problems right off the bat because the mag spring tension is to tight. The fix for this is to fill the mag to capacity and let it sit for about a week.
One word of warning about mags. ProMag after market magazines for Bersa handguns are very unreliable. Some of the mags that ProMag produce are fine. Like the mags I purchased for my Walther P99. They work perfectly so far. But the ProMag track record with their Bersa mags is not good. If you want equipment that is going to work properly in your gun. Be sure to buy Bersa factory magazines.
Just my two cents.
Also if your gun comes back and is still less than perfect. Look up ColoradoGunWorks.
C. Royce Honeycutt
Bersa Warranty Service Center
toll free number 1-866-210-4867
This is one of the best Bersa Warranty shops around.
Before you think about giving up on it if it is not perfect, Give Royce a chance to make the gun right.
Never polish the feed ramp on the 380...it is alm. and you will ruin it. Go to the FAQ on the bersatalkforum. They have all the answers that you asking about.
Please explain the physics or metalurgy of this to me.
Originally Posted by Freedom1911
Leaving a mag loaded "loads" a spring,springs are made to be loaded. I am under the metalurgical impression that cycling a spring is how one is weakened. That putting a load on a spring will have lttle or even no effect on it even if left loaded for years. You seem to speak with a vast amount of authority I would like to know how I could have been so mis-informed for so long. It is my impresion that to loosed a spring you need to load.....unload......load........ unload and repeat.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I may have been doing this incorrectly for some time now.
As 1911 explained the problem might be that the mag spring is still too stiff. A way to test this problem is to
put only a couple of bullets in the new magazine and shoot the gun. If it fires without a problem reload the
mag with as many bullets as it's suppose to hold and fire it again. If it jams or FTE you know what the
problem is. I just witnessed the same problem at the range. The guy next to me was having all kinds of problems with his new Glock 17. As soon as he removed the top three rounds the jamming problem was solved.
This is a guess. If it was me I would have sent it back to the factory. That the point of a lifetime warranty.
a note on bersas:
Originally Posted by wildcatbrownhound
1...all bersas need to be cleaned & properly lubricated before use....that goo that is on there is a preservative, not a lubricant. the gun is shipped that way to protect it.
2...don't try any SD ammo until you have 300-400 rounds of ball ammo down range.
3..WWB is more flat nosed than some other ball ammo & can cause feed problems initially.
4...if the gun has a nickel finish, DO NOT use anything that contains amonia such as hoppe's 9.
5...after market Pro-Mags are not recommended with a bersa, they are very unreliable.
6...wealth of info at.
thanx & happy shooting
RCG...you are correct, loading a mag & leaving it set will not harm the spring...it's the constantly loading & unloading that harms a spring.
Originally Posted by recoilguy
relative to bersas, after market mags are not recommended...on a new gun or mag, you may want to dis-assemble & clean the mag as well.
Many gun manufacturers have dedicated warranty repair shops or contractors. Many gun manufacturers will not accept returns to the factory (shipping to foriegn countrys can be problematic. Bersa mfg. in Italy?) and have "local" shops that will do the warrenty work/repair for them. Not uncommon; the dealer did as he was supposed to.
Originally Posted by kev74
How about 3x's cost of the bersa 380. I have a bersa 380 that has been perfect. Since it has a life time warranty you should have sent it back. Why pay a gun smith who might know about Bersa's. I have a Beretta 84BB. The Bersa380 shoots just as good IMO.
Originally Posted by Ricardokid
I have two Bersas and both are superb and fail-free. That .380 has a fabulous reputation. It's an old, reliable and time tested design.
Originally Posted by wildcatbrownhound
Guns come with sticky rust-preventative goop in them, not 'oil' per se. If you shoot without cleaning, the goop collects dirt from burned powder and the whole thing gets awful very quickly.
ALso, for you to have that many failures when the shop guy wasn't having them speaks ENTIRELY to technique. If you 'limp wrist' on the recoil, you can accidentally catch the previous empty case inside the ejection port, because the gun is 'following' the ejected case due to soft grip/limp wrist.
If a round doesn't slam all the way into the chamber, you probably don't have a clean gun. But it could be the newness of it as well, as many guns are overly 'tight' until you've put a few hundred rounds through them.
I have a Thunder 9mm and a Firestorm .22, which is the same design as your .380, and of my eight pistols they are my two favorites. I have Glock, Walther, Ruger and S&W and I like Bersa best. If yours was a lemon, it was rare.
Have you read the instruction manual? have you followed instructions for it's break in period? I own a Walther PPK/S in .380 and for the first two months I thought it was evil, really.
To make a long story short small guns are more sensitive to every thing than say a 1911. One big issue is the ammo you use. I've found that WWB works well in mine but it does not like JHP's. They seem to get hung up in the chamber and not fully seat. The solution for me, for PP ammo, was to use either PowR'Ball or Hornady Critical Defense. They mimic ball ammo shape.
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