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  1. #21
    TedDeBearFrmHell's Avatar
    TedDeBearFrmHell is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by TedDeBearFrmHell View Post
    actually this IAC might just be the gun i am looking for
    been looking into these for a few hours..... looks like all the professional reviews are positive for fit, finish, reliability and accuracy..... too good for me to refine.

  2. #22
    45Sidekick's Avatar
    45Sidekick is offline Member
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    Well I don't know what else to tell you other than to find some old janky a** pistol 2nd handed cuz those are about the bottom of the barrel 1911 framed pistols but good luck

  3. #23
    VAMarine's Avatar
    VAMarine is offline Administrator
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    If you're wanting a gun that could really use the sprucing up, find a used Auto Ordnance and have at it. It should be done to spec and be plenty rough enough for you to smooth out and if you totally mess up you won't be out much $$$.

  4. #24
    TedDeBearFrmHell's Avatar
    TedDeBearFrmHell is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by VAMarine View Post
    If you're wanting a gun that could really use the sprucing up, find a used Auto Ordnance and have at it. It should be done to spec and be plenty rough enough for you to smooth out and if you totally mess up you won't be out much $$$.
    this is exactly the thing i am wanting to do..... i shouldnt mess it up unless i crack the slide tightening it up (if needed) .... everything else is just patience and following a few basic trigger job techniques... and for that i will be using a jig....

  5. #25
    John2393's Avatar
    John2393 is offline Junior Member
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    Hi. New guy here.

    I actually DID pretty much what you are planning to do, ill make this as quick as i can, but i started with a Taurus PT1911 Duo tone. I began with swapping the 14 lb slidw spring for a 16 when i noticed excessive burring on the barrel loop mounting piece that slams against the frame rather than buying a shock buffer. From there i just went nuts.
    I replaced all the bulky taurus stuff- put on a wilson combat slim profile slide stop, a one sided ed brown slim profile safety, a wilson combat lightweight skelotonized hammer, a wilson combat titanium firing pin and spring kit, as well as a new mainspring. I didnt replace the extractor, barrel or slide.
    Aesthetically i swapped out grips for hogue aluminum powder coated black on black flame grips with a pierce grip rubber combat finger grooved insert that went UNDER the alumigrips so i could still have the combat grip effect and the cool aluminum grips. I even picked up one of those barrell bushing swap out compensators for it (that didnt last long) and a 10 rd extended mag.


    Heres a couple pics of it:


    2010-06-05224805-1.jpg picture by john2393 - Photobucket

    2010-05-05164652.jpg picture by john2393 - Photobucket

    The first pic is how i used to carry it. The second is with all the crap on it before i bought the pierce grip insert. I polished the slide and all that. So alltogeather... i paid 700 plus tax for the gun, grips- 65 +20 so 85 for both, the hammer was 30, safety was around 30 too i think, slide stop was 20, firing pin was (i want to say) 45 all the springs togeather were around 25 total (3 different spring kits)

    Plus my time. And i also shot at least 100 rds through it after i replaces something but BEFORE i replaced something else. So whats all that? Around 900 total? Now...i didnt set out to do all that, i also honed and polished, de -burred, etc... all the internal stuff with my dremmel as well as took a frogs hair off the sear and polished it too (trigger job.) I actually just started making changes and got addicted to it somehow!
    And two things happened 1) i learned a lot about 1911s, and 2) i wound up with a thousand dollar gun that was still only worth 500 bucks used.

    Finally i got tired of monkeying with it n sold it. (For 500 bucks) and went back to revolvers.

    I never liked the 2000.00Kimber thing which is why i went with a taurus in the first place, but i couldnt hit a damn thing with that taurus. I have since shot a buddies Colt Commander and it shot awesome. So it may have been THAT taurus, maybe not. But i have been looking at 1911s again recently and i was thinking of doing the same thing you are but on purpose this time, and i can tell you one thing for sure. That taurus disnt shoot ANY more accurate the day i bought it or the day i sold it. So if i were you, i wouldnt go TOO cheap to start. And befire i sunk one thin dime into it i would make sure it shoots fairly well to begin with.

    Personally im looking for a springfield M1911A1 bare bones to start this time. I liked how the Colt shot but theyre too damn expensive. Ive seen used speingfields for 550-750 .
    Just my two cents.

    The other thing is this: most gun shops that have Kimbers and Sig Saur1911s and all that, have them new for like 1100-1800, BUT a new Kimber Custom II blued retails for like 800-850 on their website.

    And a Custom II is a pretty loaded 1911. So you COULD just order a brand new Kimber for leas thaan a grand. (Thats just what i have been thinking for ME)

    Actually after dinking around with 1911s so much, i also was thinking (this again is just for ME) about curbing the whole 1911 thing and checking out a CZ90 .45, theyre around 7-800 buxks too and ive always been curious about them. I hear good things.


    Anyhoo, im rambling. Hope i helped a little. Good luck either way

  6. #26
    chessail77's Avatar
    chessail77 is offline Senior Member
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    A Mil Spec RIA used should do the trick.....

  7. #27
    carman9941 is offline Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by John2393 View Post
    Hi. New guy here.

    I actually DID pretty much what you are planning to do, ill make this as quick as i can, but i started with a Taurus PT1911 Duo tone. I began with swapping the 14 lb slidw spring for a 16 when i noticed excessive burring on the barrel loop mounting piece that slams against the frame rather than buying a shock buffer. From there i just went nuts.
    I replaced all the bulky taurus stuff- put on a wilson combat slim profile slide stop, a one sided ed brown slim profile safety, a wilson combat lightweight skelotonized hammer, a wilson combat titanium firing pin and spring kit, as well as a new mainspring. I didnt replace the extractor, barrel or slide.
    Aesthetically i swapped out grips for hogue aluminum powder coated black on black flame grips with a pierce grip rubber combat finger grooved insert that went UNDER the alumigrips so i could still have the combat grip effect and the cool aluminum grips. I even picked up one of those barrell bushing swap out compensators for it (that didnt last long) and a 10 rd extended mag.


    Heres a couple pics of it:


    2010-06-05224805-1.jpg picture by john2393 - Photobucket

    2010-05-05164652.jpg picture by john2393 - Photobucket

    The first pic is how i used to carry it. The second is with all the crap on it before i bought the pierce grip insert. I polished the slide and all that. So alltogeather... i paid 700 plus tax for the gun, grips- 65 +20 so 85 for both, the hammer was 30, safety was around 30 too i think, slide stop was 20, firing pin was (i want to say) 45 all the springs togeather were around 25 total (3 different spring kits)

    Plus my time. And i also shot at least 100 rds through it after i replaces something but BEFORE i replaced something else. So whats all that? Around 900 total? Now...i didnt set out to do all that, i also honed and polished, de -burred, etc... all the internal stuff with my dremmel as well as took a frogs hair off the sear and polished it too (trigger job.) I actually just started making changes and got addicted to it somehow!
    And two things happened 1) i learned a lot about 1911s, and 2) i wound up with a thousand dollar gun that was still only worth 500 bucks used.

    Finally i got tired of monkeying with it n sold it. (For 500 bucks) and went back to revolvers.

    I never liked the 2000.00Kimber thing which is why i went with a taurus in the first place, but i couldnt hit a damn thing with that taurus. I have since shot a buddies Colt Commander and it shot awesome. So it may have been THAT taurus, maybe not. But i have been looking at 1911s again recently and i was thinking of doing the same thing you are but on purpose this time, and i can tell you one thing for sure. That taurus disnt shoot ANY more accurate the day i bought it or the day i sold it. So if i were you, i wouldnt go TOO cheap to start. And befire i sunk one thin dime into it i would make sure it shoots fairly well to begin with.

    Personally im looking for a springfield M1911A1 bare bones to start this time. I liked how the Colt shot but theyre too damn expensive. Ive seen used speingfields for 550-750 .
    Just my two cents.

    The other thing is this: most gun shops that have Kimbers and Sig Saur1911s and all that, have them new for like 1100-1800, BUT a new Kimber Custom II blued retails for like 800-850 on their website.

    And a Custom II is a pretty loaded 1911. So you COULD just order a brand new Kimber for leas thaan a grand. (Thats just what i have been thinking for ME)

    Actually after dinking around with 1911s so much, i also was thinking (this again is just for ME) about curbing the whole 1911 thing and checking out a CZ90 .45, theyre around 7-800 buxks too and ive always been curious about them. I hear good things.


    Anyhoo, im rambling. Hope i helped a little. Good luck either way
    This is some sound advise

  8. #28
    FNISHR is offline Member
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    Ted, when you do this, you need to give us a full report plus pictures.

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